South African Journey

“AFRICA”

Where in the World?
Are the skies – – – as big
As they are in Africa
The stars, the sun
The rivers, the moon
As far as you can see
Jungle, savannas and the woodlands
All that, make the bush

Where in the world?
Is life – – – so real
As it is in Africa
The animals, the birds
The insects, the fish
All that lives and breathes
Newborns, death, and the kill
The full circle of life

Where in the world?
Can you close your eyes – – – and feel
What you can in Africa
The sounds, the smell
The voices, the wind
Like no other place
In the air, on your skin, with every sense
You feel the texture of life

Where in the world?
Are the people – – – as happy
As they are in Africa
The music, the stories
The family, the tribe
Hearts so full and free
The (Hootla) Kgotla, justice and the Chief
An extended way of life

Where in the world?
Would I rather be?
It is, to be in Africa

   Steve Hulbert

 

SOUTH AFRICAN JOURNEY

September 3, 2007 – Late in the night – our journey started – with a most powerful thunderstorm – lighting, thunder, and the rumble.  We don’t see many like this in the Pacific Northwest.  The night’s darkness would flash, crack, and shake – As I lie awake – all the pieces had come together – the final details in place – and the wait is over.  Fourteen years since we had last set foot on African soil – it has always been our dream to go back.  When we left East Africa in 1993 – Kenya, Tanzania and the Congo – our friend, photographer, and author – David Keith Jones and his wife, Karla – had been guiding their for decades – they told us – they were making the move – headed to Southern Africa – where the countryside, people and game were the way it use to be – fewer tourists.  We never forgot!  We are now on our way!  Cath’s 50th birthday and our 25th anniversary.  It’s the night before and the thunder roars.  It had been our final day – to say goodbye – to our families – Cat and the team at work – Markus our horse – a last night with Nick our dog!  The bags are packed – Johannesburg, Cape Town, Botswana and Zambia.  As the lightning flashed – in waves across the black skies – the earth shook – we made love.

September 4 – We’re off – morning walk with Nick – the last minute errands – off to the airport – Sea-Tac to Atlanta – layover for a night – break it up – good flight – good dinner – good night.  Already start to feel unplugged – no cell – no net – no more calls – Ah, a good book and my dreams.  Planned this journey so we were out of touch for good – Deon – my Mom – has been very ill since March ‘07 in Hospice – continues to fight for her life – very hard to leave for this trip – if she goes I will not be there!  Had made film and written poem on her life to play at funeral if in Africa.

September 5 – A beautiful day in Atlanta.  Sleep in – breakfast – a walk – a swim – 4:00 p.m. depart on Delta #34 – Atlanta to Dakar, Senegal – eight hour flight.  Take on fuel – onto Johannesburg – 8 more hours.  Arrive 4:30 p.m. Johannesburg Airport – wild place – last newspaper headlines we read – “Blacks killing Whites in Johannesburg streets – four Gorillas slaughtered in Congo.”  Onto Cape Town – two more hours of flying.
We had to do it right – flying first class – but it was a Fellini movie  –  red wine – appetizers – rack of lamb – my thoughts are deep on our flight to Africa – where a dollar or two is a full day’s wage.  We were going back to the place that has taught me so much – about how much we have – how you look at it – how you live with it.  In Africa I’ve met some of the happiest people in the world – who live with the least – in our material world.

September 6 – We arrive in Cape Town 8:30 p.m. (nine hours time change.)  Met by Wendall – our driver at the airport – he will also be our guide.  Hour and a half drive from airport to Western Cape Hotel – Wendall great guy and an intellectual.  On our drive through the night – he shared the history and story of the Cape Town area of South Africa – from the roots.  We also talked religion and life.  As we pass the Cape Flats area coming out of the airport – he explains the area has over 2 million people living in these townships  – Blacks living in cardboard shanties and tin shacks – very little running water, sewer, legal rights, food, or jobs.  Close to half of Cape Town’s 4.7 million population live here. (Visit www.stevehulbert.org  blog topic on human rights.) – He went on to describe the Cape Town world of have and have-nots.  Those – rich – getting richer – poor – getting poorer – the champagne glass analogy.  He used the long neck of no middle class – it’s growing rather than getting better – what’s wrong with this picture?  Wendall explained how this was all part of “Apartheid” history – how the Black men were brought here as slaves from West Africa – to provide the hard labor – how their wives and children would try to follow – they would move here to be with their husbands – then the government would ship the women and children back on trains to their homes in West Africa – they would then bring in the bulldozers and flatten Cape Flats – but they could not stop the families – they kept coming back – eventually it grew so large – so many people – they stopped their effort altogether.  This is also where the story of Nelson Mandela began – on his road to freedom.

Wendall took the time to teach me a deeper history of Nelson Mandela’s story.  A man I have always looked up to in my life.  Men like Abe Lincoln, Mahatma Gandhi, and Martin Luther King.  There are still heroes today.

Mandela belongs to a cadet branch of the Thembu dynasty which (nominally) reigns in the Transkeian Territories of the Union of South Africa’s Cape Province.  He was born in the small village of Mvezo in the district of Umtata, the Transkei capital.  His great-grandfather was Ngubengcuka (died 1832), the Inkosi Enkhulu or King of the Thebu people, who were eventually subjected to British colonial rule.  One of the king’s sons, named Mandela, became Nelson’s grandfather and the source of his surname.  However, being only the Inkosi’s child by a wife of the Ixhiba clan (the so-called “Left-Hand House”), the descendants of his branch of the royal family was not eligible to succeed to the Thembu throne.  His father, Gadla Henry Mphakanyiswa (1880 – 1928), was nonetheless designated chief of the town of Mvezo.  Upon alienating the colonial authorities, however, he was deprived of his position, and moved his family to Qunu.  Gadla remained, however, a member of the Inkosi’s Privy Council, and was instrumental in the ascension to the Thembu throne of Jongintaba Dalindyebo, who would later return this favor by informally adopting Mandela upon Gadla’s death.  Mandela’s father had four wives, with whom he fathered a total of thirteen children (four boys and nine girls).  Mandela was born to Gadla’s third wife (‘third’ by a complex royal ranking system), Nosekeni Fanny, daughter of Nkedama of the MpemvuXhosa clan, the dynastic Right Hand House, in whose umzi or homestead Mandela spent much of childhood.  His given name Rolihlanhla means “to pull a branch of a tree”, or more colloquially, “troublemaker”.

At seven years of age, Rolihlahla Mandela became the first member of his family to attend a school, where he was given the name “Nelson,” after the British Admiral Horatio Nelson, by a Methodist teacher who found his native name difficult to pronounce.

His father died of tuberculosis when Rolihlahla was nine, and the Regent, Jongintaba, became his guardian.  Mandela attended a Wesleyan mission school next door to the palace of the Regent.  Following Thembu custom, he was initiated at age sixteen, and attended Clarkebury Boarding Institute.  He completed his Junior Certificate in two years, instead of the usual three.  Destined to inherit his father’s position as a privy councilor, in 1937, Mandela moved to Healdtown, the Wesleyan college in Fort Beaufort which most Thembu royalty attended.  Age nineteen, he took an interest in boxing and running.

After matriculating, he started to study for a B.A. at the Fort Hare University, where he met Oliver Tambo, and the two became lifelong friends and colleagues.  He also became close friends with his kinsman, Kaiser (“K.D.”) Matanzima who, however, as royal scion of the Thembu Right Hand House, was destined for the throne of Transkei, a role that later led him to embrace Bantustan policies which made he and Mandela political enemies.  At the end of Nelson’s first year, he became involved in a boycott by the Students’ Representative Council against the university policies, and was asked to leave Fort Hare.

Shortly after leaving Fort Hare, Jongintaba announced to Mandela and Justice (the Regent’s own son and heir to the throne) that he had arranged marriages for both of them.  Both young men were displeased by this and rather than marry, they elected to flee the comforts of the Regent’s estate to go to Johannesburg.  Upon his arrival, Mandela initially found employment as a guard at a mine.  However, this as quickly terminated after the employer learned that Mandela was the Regent’s runaway adopted son.  He later started work as an articled clerk at a law firm thanks to connections with his friend, lawyer Walter Sisulu.  While working there, he completed his B.A. degree at the University of South Africa via correspondence, after which he started with his law studies at the University of Witwatersrand.  During this time Mandela lived in Alexandra Township, north of Johannesburg.

After the 1948 election victory of the Afrikaner-dominated National Party with its apartheid policy of racial segregation, Mandela was prominent in the ANC’s 1952 Defiance Campaign and the 1955 Congress of the People, whose adoption of the Freedom Charter provided the fundamental program of the anti-apartheid cause.  During this time, Mandela and fellow lawyer Oliver Tambo operated the law firm of Mandela and Tambo, providing free or low-cost legal counsel too many Blacks who would otherwise have been without representation.

Mandela’s approach was influenced by Mahatma Gandhi, who inspired him and succeeding generations of South African anti-apartheid activists.  Indeed, Mandela took part in the 2007 conference in New Delhi which marked the 100th anniversary of Gandhi’s introduction of Satyagraha in South Africa.

Initially committed to non-violent mass struggle, Mandela was arrested with 150 others on 5 December 1956 and charged with treason.  The marathon Treason Trial of 1956-61 followed, and all were acquitted.  From 1952-59 the ANC experienced disruption as a new class of Black activities (Africanists) emerged in the townships demanding more drastic steps against the National Party regime.  The ANC leadership of Albert Luthuli, Oliver Tambo and Walter Sisulu felt not only that events were moving too fast, but also that their leadership was challenged.  They consequently bolstered their position by alliances with small White, Colored and Indian political parties in an attempt to appear to have a wider appeal than the Africanists.  The 1955 Freedom Charter Kliptown Conference was ridiculed by the Africanists for allowing the 100,000 – strong ANC to be relegated to a single vote in a Congress alliance, in which four secretaries – general of the five participating parties were members of the secretly reconstituted South African Communist Party (SACP), strongly adhering to the Moscow line.

In 1959, the ANC lost its most militant support when most of the Africanists, with financial support from Ghana and significant political support from the Transvaal – based Basotho, broke away to form the Pan Africanist Congress (PAC) under Robert Sobukwe and Potlako Leballo.

In 1961, Mandela became the leader of the ANC’s armed wing, Umkhonto we Sizwe (translated as Spear of the Nation, also abbreviated as MK), which he co-founded.  He coordinated a sabotage campaign against military and government targets, and made plans for a possible guerrilla war if sabotage failed to end apartheid.  A few decades later, MK did wage a guerrilla war against the regime, especially during the 1980s; in which many civilians were killed.  Mandela also raised funds for MK abroad, and arranged for paramilitary training, visiting various African governments.

Mandela explains the move to embark on armed struggle as a last resort, when increasing repression and violence from the state convinced him that many years of non-violent protest against apartheid had achieved nothing and could not succeed.
Mandela later admitted that the ANC, in its struggle against apartheid, also violated human rights, and has sharply criticized attempts by parts of his party to remove statements supporting this fact from the reports of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission.

On 5 August 1962, Mandela was arrested after living on the run for seventeen months, and was imprisoned in the Johannesburg Fort.  The arrest was allegedly made possible because the CIA tipped off the police as to Mandela’s whereabouts and disguise.  Three days later, the charges of leading workers to strike in 1961 and leaving the country illegally were read to him during a court appearance.

On 25 October 1962, Mandela was sentenced to five years in prison.  Two years later on 11 June 1964, a verdict had been reached concerning his previous engagement in the African National Congress (ANC.)

While Mandela was imprisoned, police arrested prominent ANC leaders on 11 July 1963, at Liliesleaf Farm, Rivonia, north of Johannesburg.  Mandela was brought in, and at the Rivonia Trial, Mandela Ahmed Kathrada, Watler Sisulu, Govan Mbeki, Andrew Mlangeni, Raymond Mhlaba, Elias Motsoaledi, Walter Mkwayi (who escaped during trial), Arthur Goldreich (who escaped from prison before trial), Denis Goldberg and Lionel “Rusty” Bernstein were charged by the chief prosecutor Dr. Percy Yutar, the deputy attorney-general of the Transvaal, with the capital crimes of sabotage (which Mandela admitted) and crimes which were equivalent to treason, but easier for the government to prove.  The second charge accused the defendants of plotting a foreign invasion of South Africa, which Mandela denied.

In his statement from the dock at the opening of the defense case in the trial on 2 April 1964 at Pretoria Supreme Court, Mandela laid out the clarity of reasoning in the ANC’s choice to use violence as a tactic.  His statement revealed how the ANC had used peaceful means to resist apartheid for years until the Sharpeville Massacre.  That event coupled with the referendum establishing the Republic of South Africa and the declaration of a state of emergency along with the banning of the ANC made it clear that their only choice was to resist through acts of sabotage.  Doing otherwise would have been tantamount to unconditional surrender.  Mandela went on to explain how they developed the Manifesto of Umkhonto we Sizwe on 16 December 1961 intent on exposing the failure of the National Party’s policies after the economy would be threatened by foreigners’ unwillingness to risk investing in the country.  He closed his statement with these words:

“During my lifetime I have dedicated myself to the struggle of the African people.  I have fought against domination, and I have fought against black domination.  I have cherished the ideal of a democratic and free society in which all persons live together in harmony and with equal opportunities.  It is an ideal which I hope to live for and to achieve.  But if needs be, it is an ideal for which I am prepared to die.”

Bram Fischer, Vernon Berrange, Harry Schwarz, Joel Joffe, Arthur Chaskalson and George Bizos were part of the defense team that represented the accused.  Harold Hanson was brought in at the end of the case to plead mitigation.  All except Rusty Bernstein were found guilty, but they escaped the gallows and were sentenced to life imprisonment on 12 June 1964.  Charges included involvement in planning armed action, in particular four charges of sabotage, which Mandela admitted to, and a conspiracy to help other countries invade South Africa, which Mandela denied.

Nelson Mandela was imprisoned on Robben Island where he remained for the next eighteen of his twenty-seven years in prison.  On the island, he and others performed hard labor in a lime quarry.  Prison conditions were very basic.  Prisoners were segregated by race, with black prisoners receiving the fewest rations.  Political prisoners were kept separate from ordinary criminals and received fewer privileges.  Mandela describes how, as a D-group prisoner (the lowest classification) he was allowed one visitor and one letter every six months.  Letters, when they came, were often delayed for long periods and made unreadable by the prison censors.

Whilst in prison, Mandela undertook study with the University of London by correspondence through its External Programme and received the degree of Bachelor of Laws.  He was subsequently nominated for the position of Chancellor of the University of London in the 1981 election, but lost to Princess Anne.

In March 1982, Mandela was transferred from Robben Island to Pollsmoor Prison, along with other senior ANC leaders Walter Sisulu, Andrew Mlangeni, Ahmed Kathrada and Raymond Mhlaba.  It was speculated that this was to remove the influence of these senior leaders on the new generation of young black activities imprisoned on Robben Island, the so-called “Mandela University.”  However, National Party Minister Kobie Coetzee says that the move was to enable discreet contact between them and the South African government.

In February 1985, President P.W. Botha offered Mandela conditional release in return for renouncing armed struggle.  Coetzee and other ministers had advised Botha against this, saying that Mandela would never commit his organization to giving up the armed struggle in exchange for personal freedom.  Mandela indeed spurned the offer, releasing a statement via his daughter Zindzi saying “What freedom am I being offered while the organization of the people remains banned?  Only free men can negotiate.  A prisoner cannot enter into contracts.”

The first meeting between Mandela and the National Party government came in November 1985, when Kobie Coetzee met Mandela in Volks Hospital in Cape Town where Mandela was being treated for prostate surgery.  Over the next four years, a series of tentative meetings took place, laying the groundwork for further contact and further negotiations but little real progress was made.

Throughout Mandela’s imprisonment, local and international pressure mounted on the South African government to release him, under the resounding slogan Free Nelson Mandela!  In 1989, South Africa reached a crossroads when Botha suffered a stroke and was replaced as president by Frederik Willem de Klerk.  De Klerk announced Mandela’s release in February 1990.

On 2 February 1990, State President F. W. DeKlerk reversed the ban on the ANC and      other anti-apartheid organizations and announced that Mandela would shortly be released from prison.  Mandela was released from Victor Verster Prison in Paarl on 11 February 1990.  The event was broadcast live all over the world.

On the day of his release, Mandela made a speech to the nation.  He declared his commitment too peace and reconciliation with the country’s white minority, but made it clear that the ANC’s armed struggle was not yet over:

Our resort to the armed struggle in 1960 with the formation of the military wing of the ANC (Umkhonto we Sizwe) was a purely defensive action against the violence of apartheid.  The factors which necessitated the armed struggle still exist today.  We have no option but to continue. We express the hope that a climate conducive to a negotiated settlement would be created soon, so that there may no longer be the need for the armed struggle.”

He also said his main focus was to bring peace to the black majority and give them the right to vote in both national and local elections.

Following his release from prison, Mandela returned to the leadership of the ANC and, between 1990 and 1994, led the party in the multi-party negotiations that led to the country’s first multi-racial elections.

In 1991, the ANC held its first national conference in South Africa, electing Mandela as President of the organization.  His old friend and colleague Oliver Tambo, who had led the organization in exile during Mandela’s imprisonment, became National Chairperson.

Mandela’s leadership through the negotiations, as well as his relationship with President F.W. de Klerk, was recognized when they were jointly awarded the nobel Peace Prize in 1993.  however the relationship was sometimes strained, particularly so in a sharp exchange in 1991 when he furiously referred to de Klerk as the head of “an illegitimate, discredited, minority regime.”  The talks broke down following the Boipatong massacre in June 1992 when Mandela took the ANC out of the negotiations, accusing de Clerk’s government of complicity in the killings.  However, talks resumed following the Bisho massacre in September 1992, when the spectre of violent confrontation made it clear that negotiations were the only way forward.

Following the assassination of senior ANC leader Chris Hani in April 1993, there were renewed fears that the country would erupt in violence.  Mandela addressed the nation appealing for calm, in a speech regarded as ‘presidential’ even though he was not yet president of the country at that time:

“Tonight I am reaching out to every single South African, black and white, from the very depths of my being.  A white man, full of prejudice and hate, came to our country and committed a deed so foul that our whole nation now teeters on the brink of disaster.  A white woman, of Afrikaner origin, risked her life so that we may know, and bring to justice this assassin.  The cold-blooded murder of Chris Hani has sent shock waves throughout the country and the world. …Now is the time for all South Africans to stand together against those who, from any quarter, wish to destroy what Chris Hani gave his life for – the freedom of all of us.”
While some riots did follow the assassination, the negotiators were galvanized into action and soon agreed that democratic elections should take place on 27 April 1994, just over a year after Hani’s assassination.

South Africa’s first democratic elections in which full enfranchisement was granted were held on 27 April 1994.  The ANC won 62% of the votes in the election, and Mandela, as leader of the ANC, was inaugurated on 10 May 1994 as the country’s first black President, with the National Party’s de Clerk as his first deputy and Thabo Mbeki as the second in the Government of National unity.

As President from May 1994 until June 1999, Mandela presided over the transition from minority rule and apartheid, winning international respect for his advocacy of national and international reconciliation.
Mandela encouraged black South Africans to get behind the previously hated Springboks (the South African national rugby team) as South Africa hosted the 1995 Rugby World Cup.  After the Springboks won an epic final over New Zealand, Mandela, wearing a Springbok shirt, presented the trophy to Captain Francois Pienaar, an Afrikaner.  This was widely seen as a major step in the reconciliation of white and black South Africa.

 

Mandela has been married three times, has fathered six children, has twenty grandchildren, and a growing number of great-grandchildren.  His grandson is Chief Mandla Mandela.
Mandela became the oldest elected President of South Africa when he took office at the age of 77 in 1994.  He decided not to stand for a second term as President, and instead retired in 1999, to be succeeded by Thabo Mbeki.
Since his retirement, one of Mandela’s primary commitments has been to the fight against AIDS.  In 2003, he had already lent his support to the 46664 AIDS fundraising campaign, named after his prison number.  In July 2004 he flew to Bangkok to speak at the XV International AIDS Conference.  His son, Makgatho Mandel, died of AIDS on 6 January 2005.

We got to the hotel – “Wow” – beautiful – Western Cape Hotel & Spa – only hotel in South Africa allowed to build within a bio-region reserve area, the Kogelberg Nature Reserve.

September 7 and September 8 – Couple of days to unwind.  Sleep – walks – sun – fun – read – trip to Hermanus – Right whales – beautiful coastline – good food and wine – market and music in the streets.  Amazing hikes and birds – Red Cape Bishop.

September 9 – Wendall picked us up and we started a day of touring along the south shore of Africa – from the hotel we drove along the Indian Ocean around False Bay – fantastic beauty and history.  Wendall tells us more of the early history of South Africa.  We then learn about the racial divisions – blacks 79%, colored 9% (any mix), and whites 8%.  Wendall who is colored tells the story of how through history – the Dutch – English – Germans, and French people – all melting into a race called the “Afrikaners” – how they continually used the method of divide and conquer throughout their history.  As a minority rule against a majority – white against black and colored.  Giving blacks no other chance than to settle in the townships (shanty towns) and then be used as the cheap labor force – never letting them rise to power – until 1994 when Mandela and the people overcame the “apartheid” government.  He then asked if we were interested in a visit to one of the townships to really see and meet these people.  Of course, we said yes.  He drove us to (Khayelitsha) the largest township in Cape Town with just over a million people – he took us to visit Vicky who had started one of the first businesses in the township – a B&B.  The people of the township had found that they couldn’t find jobs outside the townships – so they created an economy within – building their own markets – keeping their dollars within – building their pride – as Mandela said – “helping pull themselves out of this poverty” – also a way to have others from outside visit – see and feel that they are a proud, clean, good people.  It was a Sunday morning, with many people in the streets – coming and going to church – singing – dancing and music.  We then met with Vicky and heard her story.  Besides the B&B – she has now started a school for 30 kids from her financial success – we hugged – it was a spiritual day!  We then drove on to Fish Hoek for lunch and the African Penguins – at lunch – a mother Penguin and her two babies were just outside the window in front of us hidden on a rock.  We walked down to the park with the Sunday crowds to the beach and saw hundreds of people and penguins.  From there we drove on to the Cape of Good Hope – through Table Mountain National Park – Baboon, Eland and an Ostrich on the beach.  We arrived for sunset at our small luxury hotel – just outside Cape Town – Twelve Apostles.  The Twelve Apostle Mountains behind us – the ocean beach right out front.   Dinner at Azure. Celebrated her 50th and our 25th. Oh Ya!  What a night – dinner – cake – champagne, and yellow roses.

September 10 – Wendall picked us up – went into Cape Town – it was a blue sky –  warm sunny day – Green Square Market – Long Street – book store – music store – art gallery and more.  Drove on to the wine country for lunch.  Le Petite Ferme “small farm” – (one of top 10 restaurants in the world) – on to a wine tasting – Resten and Verde (Rest and Peace) not (Rest in Peace) – great vineyard – beautiful wine.  Back to the hotel – sunset – pack – get ready for a 4:00 a.m. pickup.  We’re going to the bush – this is the reason we came – enough big cities – fancy hotels – fine dining.   

September 11 – Wake-up call at 3:30 a.m. for early pickup 4:00 a.m.  Headlines – “Riot in Township – Main Freeway Closed – Shots Fired” – A country on the edge.  Off to the airport.  South African Airlines to Johannesburg.  At Johannesburg Airport we are to transfer to Air Botswana – but indefinite delays.  Plane had to turn around – landing gear won’t come down – BBA (Beat by Africa) – that’s how life goes – waiting in line – meet Minister Jerry Lackey who’s been in Botswana for 20 years with wife.  Built church – mission – and school.  Now a citizen of Botswana – sold successful business in United States – came to find more – a meaning – a purpose to life – see his work at www.loveBotswana.org.  Then a good-looking Botswana woman starts to talk to me.  Just back from five days in China with husband and friends.  Husband is the Regional Manager of the S.A.B., South African Brewery (Second largest brewing company in the world.)  He’s Maun Regional Office and Brewery Manager.  Great guy – “G-Force” is his nickname.  He knows my friend Wazha Tempa from IUCN Commission on Education.  Then he introduces me to his friend – C.T. Bethia who is the Vice Chairman of the Botswana government – Northwest District Council.  We talk about Botswana as a role model and leader – for the other African countries – he also knew Wazha very well – great people.  A great way for delay.  After an eight hour delay we finally take off at 6:15 p.m. – get to Maun after dark – can’t fly into Abu Camp – no lights on gravel landing strip – must stay over night in Maun at Riley’s Hotel – donkeys on the streets – dinner and sleep.

September 12 – 4:30 a.m. – rise and shine at Riley’s – quick coffee – drive to airport.  Red African sunrise – children going to school – dirt roads – donkeys.  It’s hot and no rain for five months – 6:30 a.m. flight to Abu Camp – flying north out of Maun over the Okavango Delta – this is it – we’re going on a safari – this is Africa! – This is why we came!  No fences – no trash – no asphalt – no buildings – just the way God made it!

THE DELTA

The Okavango Delta is a lush tropical wetland surrounded by Kalahari Desert savanna.  At around 20,000 km, it is recognized as one of the world’s largest inland deltas, with over 98% of the water evaporating.

The water starts its journey in the highlands of southern Angola.  There, the Okavango River (called the Cubango in Angola) rises and flows south.  Its cuts through Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, and then enters northwestern Botswana.  This area is extremely flat, and with such a small gradient, the water fans out.

The northern part of the Delta is called the Panhandle.  Here there is still enough of an elevation change that the river fans out for only 14 km (9 miles) or so.  South of the town of Seronga, the narrow Panhandle gives way to the wide Delta, which spreads out for over one hundred kilometers to the south, east, and west. This area is a patchwork of swampy areas and islands.  The swamp is similar to that of the Panhandle.  The islands are heavily forested with acacia, palm, and figs.  Animal life here consists of mostly the same species as both the Panhandle and the desert savanna, with Hippo, Crocodile, Sitatunga, and Lechwe in the swamps and other types of Antelope, Elephants, Zebra, Baboon, Giraffe, Lions, Leopards, Cheetah, Hyena, and African Wild Dogs on the islands.

Central to this ecosystem is the annual flood, which brings water and nourishment to the Delta.  The summer rains in Angola bring a flood in the winter months.  The flood makes travel for both people and wildlife difficult, and the islands become surrounded by water.  Once the flood recedes, the area can become quite dry, the formerly riverine floodplain becoming grassy plains.  In many ways, this flood determines the life cycle, not only for the animals and plants, but also for the people of the Delta.

PEOPLES OF BOTSWANA

The Okavango Delta Peoples of Botswana consist of five separate ethnic groups, each with their own language and ethnic identity.  The five ethnic groups are:
    Bugakwe
    Dxeriku
    Hambukushu
    Bayei
    Xanekwe
Note that for each of these groups, there are many different spellings and pronunciations.

Members of all of these ethic groups live outside of Botswana as well.  Bugakwe, Dxeriku, and the Hambukushu live in northern Namibia and southern Angola.  There are also Hambukushu people in southwestern Zambia.  Some Xanekwe and Bayei people also live in northern Namibia.

Aside from the distinct ethnic identities of these groups, there is a further important distinction.  Bugakwe and Xanekwe are Bushmen peoples (also called San or Basarwa).  Bushmen are the aboriginal inhabitants of southern Africa and have lived in small groups as nomadic hunter-gathers.

Dxeriku, Hambukushu, and Bayei are Bantu peoples who speak distantly related Central Bantu languages.  This suggests that the Dxeriku, Hambukushu, and Bayei are more recent inhabitants of the area, having separately migrated from central Africa several hundred years ago.

Today people from all five ethnic groups live throughout the Okavango Delta.  The five different ethnic groups all pursue different traditional subsistence strategies.  Bugakwe and Xanekwe are both hunter-gathers, but the Bugakwe forage in both the desert savanna and the swamps, while the Xanekwe historically had a riverine orientation in their foraging.  Dxeriku, Hambukushu, and Bayei peoples all engage in mixed subsistence strategies of farming, fishing, and hunting, collecting wild plant foods, and cattle and goat herding.

Today, the distinctions in subsistence ecology between these groups are less clear.  Partly due to living in multi-ethnic communities and partly as a result of education, government programs, and modernization.  Members of all these groups are converging on a common mixed subsistence strategy of fishing, farming, collecting wild foods, herding, and hunting.  Government regulation of hunting has greatly diminished the hunting component of all these groups’ subsistence regime.

RELIGION
Bugakwe and Xanekwe peoples have historically had religious practices similar to those of many other Bushmen groups.  These practices incorporate a strong belief in the supernatural with a deep reverence for the natural world.

Dxeriku and Bayei peoples historically practiced religions that placed a great deal of importance on the spiritual connection with ancestors.
Hambukushu people also saw these relationships as central to their religion.

Dxeriku and Hambukushu are traditionally totem clans related to certain animals such as Elephant, Crocodile, and Lion.  Members of a totem clan did not hunt or eat the totem animal.  Moreover, people could not marry within their clan, but only marry people from specific clans. In this century, many Bugakwe, Xanekwe, and Bayei peoples also adopted this tradition.

The Hambukushu also believed that certain individuals had the power to make rain, a precious commodity in this arid environment.  These “rainmakers” exercised great religious and political authority.
To members of all these groups, physical, and emotional health are but facets of spirituality.  To varying degrees, shamans and herbalists occupy important positions for their connection to the supernatural world and their healing abilities.

Hambukushu and Bayei shamans are also expert herbalists and are sought out by people from within all five ethnic groups and also by others.

Today, most members of these groups practice their traditional religions.  Many people also practice forms of Christianity, ranging from Western denominations or missionary organizations to indigenous forms of Christianity.

HIV/AIDS PANDEMIC
Perhaps the greatest threat facing the Okavango Delta Peoples is HIV/AIDS.  In 2007, the HIV/AIDS prevalence rate in the Okavango Delta was estimated at between 40 – 50% of adults, one of the highest in the world.  Over 90% of hospital deaths were HIV/AIDS related.  Several factors common to the African HIV/AIDS epidemic contribute to this high rate:
    A long standing high rate of STD infections;
    High levels of multi-partnered sexuality;
    Improvements in transportation also contribute to the high rate of transmission;
The rise of nature-based tourism in the Okavango Delta since the mid-1980s means that even the most remote areas are affected.  Previously inaccessible areas now have thousands of tourists visiting each year.  Small planes constantly travel between bush camps and the town of Maun, providing another vector for HIV.

Although the government of Botswana has an admirable AIDS education and health plan in place, it has not kept pace with this dramatic increase.

One of the most tragic features of the HIV/AIDS epidemic in Botswana is the pattern of mortality.  Younger, educated, highly motivated people in the prime of their lives are the main casualties.  This serves to deplete families, communities, and the workforce, leaving the very old and the very young.  It is estimated that by 2007 Botswana will have over 50,000 AIDS orphans.  The Okavango Delta is one of the most remote and least developed parts of Botswana, and is perhaps least prepared to handle this disaster.  Among the Okavango Delta Peoples, traditional life ways and extended families are already under great pressure, and the HIV/AIDS epidemic adds a further burden.

PLACES OF INTEREST:
Chobe National Park
Vast and varied wilderness area
Chobe covers an area of 11,646km2 and is world renowned for the magnificent array of wildlife contained within its borders.  The Elephant population alone has been estimated at between 40,000 and 60,000 individuals!

A wide range of distinctive habitat areas are represented within the National Park providing a fascinating variety of experiences.  The lush, almost tropical Linyanti swamps are found in the northwest of the Park while unpredictable, harsh and beautiful Savuti channel and marsh are located in the southwest.  The rich floodplains of the northeast run along the banks of the meandering Chobe River which forms the northern boundary of the Park.  The of Chobe is arid and hot, underlain by Kalahari sands.  The Chobe River originates in the Angolan highland where it begins life as the Kwando River. Before becoming the Chobe, the water course changes its name twice to the Linyanti and then the Itenge.

The vegetation changes dramatically throughout the Park, the compacted clay soils along the river front being dominated by Mopane trees while Acacia species appear further inland.  The land is much drier and more open than the Okavango area with wide plains and sand ridges.  The profusion of palatable grass species attracts an impressive variety of herbivores including the ever present Elephant, Giraffe, and Wildebeest, massive herds of Buffalo, Impala, Kudu, Waterbuck, Tsessebe, Steenbok, and Warthog.  Chobe is also one of the few places on earth where you will find the rare Puku Antelope.  Similar in size and color to the Lechwe, they are never far from water and are only found in Chobe and a few areas of Zambia.  The Chobe Bush-Buck is another endemic species.

Chobe is also home to Lion, Leopard, Cheetah, Spotted Hyena and Jackal as well as smaller species such as Genet, Serval, and Bat-eared Fox.  In addition, the range of habitat from open water and floodplain to savanna and woodland means that the bird life is amazing.  Several species of Eagle, Owl, and Vulture are present as well as Oxpeckers Francolins, Hornbills, Woodpeckers, Plovers, and many more.

Moremi Game Reserve
Moremi Game Reserve covers 4,610km2 of the Okavango Delta and was the first wildlife area to be set aside by tribal people rather than colonial powers.  Moremi extends east and northwards to join Chobe National Park, ensuring a continuous area of protected land all the way to Kasane.

Because Moremi Reserve and Chobe National Park are not fenced, animals are able to follow their own migration routes without interference, and use of the land adjacent to the officially protected areas is also carefully controlled.

In conclusion the Okavango Delta is a pristine wildlife reserve and has an incredible variety of birdlife.  Probably the best known area of Botswana is the Okavango Delta.  This area is one of the world’s largest inland water systems, a unique oasis of life in the center of the Kalahari Desert.  It stretches over 15,000km2 and supports a staggering variety of animal, plant, and bird life.  The water is once thought to have reached the sea, but this is no longer the case.  After a series of tectonic uplifts and earthquakes running along geological fault lines, the land at the edge of the Delta now lies lower than that of the surrounding area.

There are two fairly distinct areas of the Delta – the permanent swamp which is inundated with water all year-round, and the seasonal swamp which is flooded annually and dries gradually with the onset of summer in October.

The wildlife in the Delta is rich and varied.  Many of the larger herbivores are present and include Elephant, Buffalo, Giraffe, Hippo and Antelope species as well as numerous smaller animals.  The carnivore populations are healthy and widespread including Lion, Leopard, Cheetah, Wild Dog, Spotted Hyena, Crocodile, and Jackal.

In addition to the animal populations, the Delta is home to a staggering variety of birds; some 450 species exist within Northern Botswana.  The most exciting aspect of encountering this wildlife is that the populations have never been imported or controlled in any way, and the large protected areas are not fenced.

Therefore, Botswana is one of the last remaining areas where you are able to witness the complex interactions of a truly natural environment.  

September 12 – 8:00 a.m. – we land at a remote airport on a gravel runway – Cuzzy our guide – picks us up – then headed out on a great game drive to Abu Camp – the original Elephant riding safari camp in all of Africa.  The owner, Randall Jay Moore – created a one of a kind Elephant rehab program for old – young – circus – theme park – game park – Elephants – they bring them back to Africa to rehabituate – and release.  Incredible story and program.  His book tells the whole story “Elephants for Africa.”  Randall’s business partner and co-owner, Colin (from U.K.) and his friend Chepo (from Mexico) are the only other guests in the camp with us.

Abu Camp has been built within a private 400,000 acre reserve bordering the Moremi Game Reserve, in the heart of Botswana’s Okavango Delta.  The camp is the base for twice weekly, three night/four day, Elephant back excursions.  Steve Forbes said “One of the 10 things to do before you die!”  CNN noted “If you only do one safari in your entire lifetime, this is the one!”  The camp is named after Randall Moore’s legendary Elephant “Abu” the star of such motion pictures as “White Hunter, Black Heart” and “Power of One.”  He was born in 1960 and was thought to be from either East Africa or from the Kruger Park in South Africa. As a youngster he was taken to the United States where he was used as a ride Elephant at a wildlife park in Grand Prairie, Texas and then was taken to Washington State and lived on a farm.  He was brought back to Africa in 1988 for the filming of “Circles in a Forest” and moved to Botswana in 1990 where he was instrumental in setting up the first Elephant back safaris on the African continent.  He continued to lead the Abu herd through the following twelve years.  Abu died in 2002.  The herd is now led by the matriarch, Cathy.  Cathy now leads Elephant back safaris with 7 other Elephants.  The Elephant family becomes the focus of full day Elephant back safaris, with each of the adults carrying guests in large, comfortable, custom-made saddles.  The youngsters accompany the herd, providing a constant source of amusement as they play and swim.  Being part of an Elephant family allows you the unique opportunity of approach and interacting with a wide variety of game at close range, as on Elephant back you more readily blend with nature.

“THE HERD”

LITTLE ABU:  A fanfare of trumpeting by the Elephants in the riding herd and much jubilation among the staff greeted a new arrival in Elephant Back Safaris’ Abu Camp in Botswana – a healthy baby bull born to Sirheni just after 6 a.m. on May 24, 2006.

The father is believed to be Mafunyane, the first young bull from the herd to be released into the wild.  

Randall Moore and staff immediately named the new baby “Abu” after the famous leader of the herd who died tragically four years ago and after whom the main camp is named.

Little Abu, measuring 89 cms at the shoulder and weighing between 250-300 lbs, was walking – a little unsteadily at first – within 20 minutes of his birth and suckling three hours later.  He is already showing signs of the proud independence of his illustrious namesake.  Mafunyane was seen mating with Sirheni just over a year ago during one of his numerous visits back to Abu Camp.

CATHY:  The matriarch of the herd, Cathy, born in 1960, is the largest adult cow and is distinguished by her shorter left tusk.  While still a youngster, Cathy was captured in Uganda from Murchison Falls National Park.  She was taken to a zoo outside Toronto, Canada, where she remained until she was returned to Africa for the filming of “Circles in a Forest.”  Like Abu, she came to Botswana in 1990.  Due to her stable temperament and tractability, Cathy now leads the safaris.

MTHONDO MBOMVO:  “Painted Penis”
A strong and stocky bull with a broad head and even played tusks, Mthondo was born in 1975.  he has a distinct lack of pigmentation on his penis, hence his given name.  Originally from Zimbabwe, he was translocated when young to the Pilanesburg Reserve in South Africa.  Here he became a nuisance, knocking down tents in a hunting camp and harassing visitors in the park.  He was subsequently removed and then joined the Elephant Bank Safaris herd in 1993.  Now quiet and dependable, Mthondo had adapted quickly to his new life.

SHIRHENI:  “Where the Old Cows Meet”
Shirheni, another of four young females, was born in 1986 and is also a Kruger Park orphan.  She joined the herd in 1990.  She gave birth to a young bull on November 27, 2000 (Pula, after she was mated by a wild bull on February 20, 1999.)  She is now the new mother of Little Abu.

PULA:  “Rain”
Pula was born to Shirheni on November 27, 2000, after a night of heavy rain.  Pula is the Setswana word for rain, success, and also the local currency.  At birth he measured 91 ms in height and it took him one hour before he made his first hesitant steps.  Now a boisterous 2 ½ year-old he charms everyone with his enthusiasm for life.

GIKA:  “Turned Over” – refers to her ears
Gika has very short tusks that are close to her trunk.  A Kruger Park orphan born in 1988, she also joined the herd in 1990.  She is our “dizzy blonde”!  

NAYA:  “To Give”
Born to Gika on March 30, 2003.  At two-days-old she was introduced to everyone in the herd to great acclaim.  Small, delicate, and very sweet-natured, she is sure to become a favorite.

KITIMETSE II:  “I’m Lost”
Kitimetse was found in our area at the end of 1999, after she had been injured by a crocodile and abandoned by her own wild herd.  She was brought to the boma at Abu Camp where her wounds healed and she was slowly introduced to the rest of the Abu herd.  She has been totally accepted by the other Elephants, and has bonded with our younger cows, Gika, Mandipa, and Shirheni.  We estimate that she would have been born in 1996.

Each guest leaves Abu Camp not only with a greater knowledge of the largest mammal on earth but an in-depth, intrinsic understanding of what it means to be an Elephant, the pressures and challenges of pachyderm life from within the herd.  To be an Elephant is to be an intelligent, emotional being with complex social structure, a deep capacity to feel, and a bone-vibrating ability to communicate across miles of African bush.  Once you’ve been to Abu Camp, you will always be a part of the greater Elephant of the greater Elephant herd.

We had come to Africa to learn about “Elephants.”  They were our major focus – and it was Cathy’s dream – her idea – because of our experience with the Gorillas in 1993.  We found that there is really something special when you go – to experience – read  – study – learn about one species – one animal – “the Elephant.”

( I would like to recommend one book for you to read about Elephants  –   “Modoc”       The True Story of the Greatest Elephant that Ever Lived – by Ralph Helfer )

Having learned from my friends on the IUCN Commission on Education about the love of music and stories with the people of Africa – it is truly a way of life – their history and culture has been passed down through the ages in their music and stories – so I brought a CD of “My Greatest Hits” for each camp to copy and give each staff memeber their own CD – I also brought my story to tell about the beauty of Elephants – I would share the story at each camp around the campfire with all the staff – and at the dinner table with guests – this is my story:

                                                  “A MOTHER’S LOVE”

On a hot afternoon deep in the heart of the Okavango Delta – Cathy, a working Elephant – and her new three-month-old baby calf – Little Abu – were out grazing on the green grasses of the Delta – where Little Abu was learning to be an Elephant.  Cathy is the matriarch of the herd from Abu Camp – she had been given a few months off work – to spend time with her Little Abu – to give him a mother’s love – as only a mother can – teaching her calf all that she knew about the world.  As the day stretched on and the afternoon sun became hotter – they found a spot in the shade to rest under an African Sycamore tree – as they slept – it slowly started to rain – at first very slowly – as a fine mist – then a drizzle – then it began to rain – (if you’ve ever been to Africa – you know – how it can rain – oh yes – rain like the devil) – it began to rain very hard – oh, how it rained – buckets – then the wind started to blow – suddenly a crack of lightning – an explosion of rolling thunder – the rain now blowing sideways!  Cathy thought maybe she should take Little Abu back to the safety of their home – the boma – this is where the Mahouts – their trainers live – with the other elephants.  She started out for home – on their way back they had to cross the Linyanti River – as they entered the river channel there was a low – slow current – the Linyanti is a huge – wide river – as Cathy and Little Abu worked their way across to the far side – it rained harder and harder – the water started to rise – higher and higher – the current became stronger and stronger – when they reached the bank on the other side – they could not climb out – for the steep banks were twelve to fifteen feet high – slipping and sliding in the mud – they could not get out – the river continued to rise and the current grew stronger.  Billy – Cathy and Little Abu’s Mahout – along with all the Mahouts from the boma – began to hear Little Abu’s screams – they rushed out to the river – saw the situation – then tried everything they could – to help Cathy and Little Abu – they found they could do nothing.  Cathy’s feet were still on the river bottom – but Little Abu was now floating.  Cathy held the baby against her body as the river current grew higher and swifter – whenever Little Abu would begin to drift away – Cathy used her trunk to pull the calf back against her body.  Suddenly, the fast rising water washed Little Abu away – Cathy turned – jumped in and plunged downstream over fifty yards to retrieve Little Abu.  Swirling in the tempest of the river – she pinned her baby calf against the bank with her head – then she lifted Little Abu with her trunk – she reared up on her hind legs – there placing Little Abu on a rocky ledge just a few feet above the water.  Cathy then fell backwards – tumbling – rolling – swept away – into the torrents of the Linyanti – disappearing downstream – never to be seen again.  The Mahouts were shocked – their hearts were sickened by the sight of Cathy being taken away – then they heard Little Abu screaming for his mother – they all turned their attention to the calf – which could barely fit on the narrow ledge – alone – cold and shivering.  An hour passed – the river continued to rise – higher and higher – closer to baby Abu – his potential death.  Billy and the Mahouts tried everything they could think of to save him – nothing worked – as Billy peered down – wondering what he might do to rescue Little Abu – he heard the grandest sound he’s ever heard in his life – Phunnnnn Phunnnnn Phunnnnn – the trumpeting of a mother’s love.  Cathy was alive – she had survived – somehow – someplace – she had gotten out of the river – crossed the Linyanti – got up the bank – and was making her way back – running as fast as she could – calling out the whole time to Little Abu – in her loudest defiant roar – Phunnnnn Phunnnnn Phunnnnn – but this was music to Little Abu – Billy and the Mahouts.  Little Abu’s two small ears – like little maps of Africa – were cocked forward listening to the only sounds that mattered – the call of his mother.  When Cathy reached Little Abu and saw that he was safe on the ledge – her call changed to the rumble that Elephants typically make when pleased – everyone was so happy – so tired!  The two Elephants were left that night – where they would let nature take its course.  By morning Little Abu was off the ledge – Cathy had retrieved him somehow – the Linyanti was no longer in flood – Cathy and Little Abu were now headed home to Billy – the Mahouts – their home at the boma and Abu Camp.
(This is a true story – the names and places have changed, but the framework is from the book:  “When Elephants Weep” by Jeffery Moussaieff Masson and Susan McCarthy.)

Back at Abu Camp – with just the owners and ourselves as the camp’s only guests – we were treated like royalty.  At noon we were driven down to the river – to a Delta lagoon – for an unbelievable lunch with Randall Moore – a film crew and actors from the African TV show (Studio 53) – and a lady who was the Director of Tourism for Botswana.  It was to the “nines” – long table with fine white linen – crystal – full bar – wine and cheese – five course gourmet meal cooked to order.  Boats to take you out on the Delta – pillows and blankets on the river bank to take a “siesta.”  While resting we got to see an Elephant river crossing with a family of 13 Elephants coming off the island – through the swamp.  Leading the way was a 55-year-old bull Elephant – “White Ghost” – at the top of his game.  At 4 p.m. we took a short game drive – headed out to where the Elephants have been resting for the day.  We are introduced and met each Mahout (Elephant trainer) – then given a first class Elephant education.  They brought “Cathy” right up to us and said – the “Elephant” – first the eye lids – she has three eye lids – “Cathy blink-blink-blink” – she does and shows us all three eye lids.  Next her temporal gland below her ear – why and how it secretes at different times – “here stick your finger in” see and smell – next her ears – they are used not only for hearing and communication – but also for cooling – “come see and touch the veins on the back of her ears” – they also have a flap that closes within their ears when swimming.  Elephants can grow to be approximately 65 years-old.  They grow through six sets of molars (back teeth) in their lifetime – when the last set wears out – if they are not killed or die sooner – the Elephant will go to the river or swamp to eat the soft grasses and eventually die of old age – there are no secret Elephant graveyards – they do have great memories – they do visit the sites and bones of dead family members – they do communicate and hear in sub-sonic sound waves through their feet and ears – communicating with other elephants miles away – far beyond human hearing abilities.  Their trunks have over 150 sets of muscles – they have great ability to smell – touch – pick-up – pull down – deliver food and water to the mouth – incredible trunk talent – African Elephant two tips on trunk – Asian Elephant one tip – then a tusk lesson – smaller on females – used for multiple purposes while feeding and working – Elephants are left/right handed – you can tell by which tusk they use – in tandem with trunk to tear down branches for food – they have six layers of skin – we learned much, much more in our introduction to the Elephants.  It was the best.  Then the Mahouts taught us how to mount the Elephant saddle – we were off on our first Elephant safari adventure.  Cathy on Cathy with Billy (Mahout), Steve on Mthondo with Deick.  We returned to Abu Camp in Elephant style.

That night we had dinner with Randall, Colin, and Chepo – the lodge staff took us to the next level of fine dining.  After dinner we all sat around the campfire learning about Abu Camp’s history and tall tales – getting to know each other – drinking wine – cigars – and telling stories – deep into the African night.

September 13 – 5:00 a.m. – an African sunrise over the lagoon – there are no words for the beauty – the sights – the sounds.  Coffee – tea – breakfast with the boys and Cuzzy.  Randall departs for Maun – we head out with Colin and Chepo for our first full day with the Elephants.  (Cathy on Cathy with Billy, and Steve on Mthondo with Deick.)
So the basic day’s routine at Abu with the Elephants is as follows: – rise and shine – 5:30 a.m. with a staff member bringing you fresh coffee.  Breakfast 6 am. – 6:30 a.m.  Get over to Elephants boma (their barn and paddock fenced enclosure) – 7 a.m. saddle up and out into the bush by 7:30 a.m.  We would then cruise through the swamps, woodlands, and savanna – to a designated location by 10:30 – 11:00 a.m. dismount – cleaned up – then enjoyed tea, coffee and cookies.  The Elephants would be unsaddled and free to eat, sleep, play, bathe, etc. – we would then go on a game drive back to camp for lunch by 12:30 or 1 pm.  Read – swim – relax – sleep till 4 p.m.  At 4:30 p.m. we would take a game drive back to where the Elephants had been resting and bring them home to Abu Camp.  The entire experience is hard to put into words – the power, quiet grace, such beauty, the herd, baby Little Abu – nature surrounding you – it was the best!

Colin’s Questions and Facts: (On game drive back to Abu Camp)
Elephants must drink every day if they have a baby in herd.  Lone males can go 4 to 5 days just on vegetation and its moisture.
Of all major “Big Five” cats in Africa – Who has the greatest population?  Leopard – it’s just we don’t see them because they are so shy, wary, and secretive.
Lions in all of Africa – 22,500 total population – 2,500 are male – 500-600 are mating males – (those that have the ability to pass on their genes) – very fragile numbers and situation for their species.
Why are there no medium size Palm trees?  Only full grown or small starts?
“What animal kills more people in Africa than any other?”
    1.    Mosquito with malaria.
    2.    Hippos
Termite mounds always tilt to the west as the afternoon sun is hottest – guides use as a tool for direction.  (Melting dung)
Cuzzy gets us stuck in the black mud – Landcruiser up over the wheels – with the owner on board – we all laugh and tease him.  Back to camp – lunch – read – sleep.

We head out for our afternoon Elephant ride 4:30 pm.  Meet the Mahouts and team.  
Cathy on “Gika” – Steve on “Shirheni” with the baby Little Abu following.  Chris was my Mahout – we laughed and told stories all the way back to camp.
That night – got back – cleaned up – Colin then announces – “we’re going for a night game drive” – we jumped in with Cuzzy, Colin, Chepo and head out.  As we drove into the night – we turned a corner – to our surprise we saw candle lights and a camp fire far in the distance.

It was Seba Camp (sister camp to Abu) – Colin had arranged for us and Chepo to enjoy a full-blown elegant outdoor farewell bush dinner.  Also there was Cuzzy – Richard, Abu’s general manager and his wife Lynn – and Kate Evans – the woman who has headed the Elephant research project for the last five years at Abu.  It was the real deal – huge campfire – chairs surrounding – full bar and dinner setting off in the distance.  We started with champagne – laughing and telling stories – Kate was answering all of our Elephant questions and talked about her background and the research project.

In January 2002, Kate Evans (from Britain) started research in the area NG 26 of the Okavango Delta, with the help and support of Randall Moore of Elephant Back Safaris (EBS) and the Botswana Ministry of Environment, Wildlife and Tourism. (www.elephantresearch.co.uk) The research is focused on adolescent male Elephants and the transition from herd to bull life with an emphasis on research into the viability of releasing Elephants into the wild from a captive environment.

On February 1, 2002, Mufanyane, a 14-year-old male from the herd at Abu Camp was released.  He is doing very well, associating with wild males and herds in the area.  On occasion he can be seen in and around camp but this is not surprising as the process of independence in the wild can take one – four years!  Due to the success of Mufanyane’s release, they were given permission for two more adolescent males to be released.  Small Thando (15 year-old) and Seba (9 year-old) were released on February 10, 2003.  They are always together and are very adventurous, exploring areas outside their natal range.

Unlike the females, which remain with their natal herd, the natural instinct of male Elephants is to leave and become independent when they are adolescent.  This instinct is very strong, even in captive males, so it has always been the vision to release these males to allow them to do what comes naturally.

Although the work primarily focuses on males, a unique opportunity arose to see how a female Elephant would integrate into the wild.  Nandipa was released in September 2003 and is surprising us all with how quickly she is adapting and seems to have become part of a wild herd and has moved out of the vicinity of camp with them.

These four Elephants have all been fitted with satellite radio collars to enable us to pinpoint their positions three times a day.  Five wild adolescent males have also been collared to investigate and compare home range, habitat utilization and movements of adolescent males.  These are tracked and located once a week from the air to monitor their social interactions and habitat selection.  In addition, they are tracked from the ground when possible, but the Okavango is their playground so they are able to go wherever they want, making the latter method unfeasible at times.

Botswana is home to the largest remaining Elephant population in the world (estimated at 120,000 – 150,000.)  This project will provide information to enable a realistic Elephant conservation program to be implemented in Botswana, ensuring that this population remains for generations to come.

Back at the campfire we were talking Elephants – suddenly – out of the dark of the night comes the singing of native tribal songs – twelve of the staff dressed in full local tribal attire – as spirits they appear out of the darkness – singing – dancing – then after several songs – they invite each one of us – one at a time – to come sing and dance with them – until we were all dancin’ and rockin’ under the African stars – How we danced!
We then retired to the most elegant – formal bush dinner – you could imagine – candle light – fine china – crystal – three chefs – eight staff serving – great wine – Oh Ya!  We ate – we laughed – told stories.  With Kate and company we talked Elephants all night – we learned so much about Elephants.  Our party lasted late into the African night.  What a night.  

September 14 – 6:30 am – Colin had to go to Maun for business.  We said our goodbyes.  Out for out last Elephant ride with Chepo and Cuzzy.  Steve on Cathy with Billy.  Cath on Mthondo with Deick.  Our last Elephant safari.

Upon our return to camp – we said our goodbyes to Chepo, Richard and the staff.   Cuzzy took us to the airport – there waiting was his girlfriend to meet us – it was a real honor – we had made a real friend in Cuzzy – we loved him.  On the drive he told us he was leaving Abu at the end of the month to start his own safari business – he told us all about his plans – it was great – we are happy for him.  We wished him well and said our goodbyes.  It was hard to leave this special place and people.

We took off with our pilot Rayden – the same pilot we had from Maun to Abu.  While flying at about 600’ altitude – an African Fish Eagle flies past us just off the wing – with a giant snake in its talons – a good omen.  We’re on to a new adventure. 

Vumbura Plains Camp – has been built in an exclusive l,130,000 acre wildlife viewing concession.  The property offers incredible wetland and savanna wildlife viewing – from Red Lechwe, Waterbuck, Hippo, and Crocodile in the wetter areas to Sable, Kudu, Wildebeest, and Tsessebe on the open plains.  Herds of Elephant and Buffalo occur along with the predators – Lion, Leopard, Wild Dog, and Cheetah.  Birding is also spectacular.  Vumbura Plains Camp had been divided into two luxury seven-room camps each with their own main area.  Each incredibly spacious room was tastefully furnished and included a comfortable bedroom, lounge, in-suite bathroom and shower.  Each has an outdoor sitting area and private plunge pool as well.  The tented rooms are built on raised decks and connected to the main lodge areas by raised walkways.  The main dining/lounge is tucked beneath a canopy of trees with a superb view across the floodplains. Year-round water activities include mekoro (canoe) excursions, boating, professionally guided walks, wildlife viewing drives in open 4×4 vehicles across the Okavango’s outermost open savannas.

This outline will give a good picture of what a typical day at a safari camp would be:

    5:30 a.m.                                  Wake up messenger with coffee
    6:00 a.m.                                   Breakfast
    6:30 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.               Game drive/Activity
    10:30 a.m. – 11:30 a.m.             (Brunch/Lunch)
    Noon – 3:00 p.m.                      Sleep – read – swim – research
    3:30 p.m.                                   Tea and snacks
    4:00 p.m. – 6:30 p.m.                Game drive/Activity
    6:30 p.m.                                   Sundowners
    7:00 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.                Night drive back to camp with spotlight
    8:00 p.m.                                   Dinner – read – sleep – love

NOTE:  See list of all game – wild life and birds – on page numbers 40 – 43 at end of journal – the game drives were beyond our greatest dreams – Lions – Hippos – Elephants – Leopard – Cheetah – Monkey – Baboon – Impala – Hyena – Zebra – Birds – Trees – Flora Fauna it never stopped.  I will also point out highlights of each day along the way.

We are met at the gravel airstrip – by Robert – a guide in training.  He did a great job – we had a blast on our drive into the camp.  The game was out of this world.  In the hour or so driving to Vumbura Plains Camp we saw everything – Zebra – Wildebeest – Birds – Birds – Birds – Monkeys – Kudu – Elephant and more.  When we got to camp – introduction to staff and camp Managers Garrett and Liz – they had been together for over six years.  Good people and Garrett loved to fish.  Great rooms – unpack – shower – tea – out on an afternoon game drive – Russell (Russ) was our guide.  At first I didn’t get good vibes – it just takes time – sometimes.  We became great friends.   He taught me a lot about game – tracking – his family – his tribe – and the problems and issues the area faces.  He knew his history – well read – and he new six languages – but a man of few words.

Russ told us that he owned a farm and was born and raised in a family of farmers.  He explained the realities of life with African wildlife and its hardships on the people and communities.  He was a guide making a living, but also a farmer.  We had a great game drive that afternoon.  We stopped for the famous “Sundowners.”  Russell had a location picked out – where he stopped and set up a table and cloth on the front of the Landcruiser – then he served drinks and appetizers – as we all watched the sun go down.  We headed back to camp with our spot light – Genet and two male Lions in the grass.

September 15 – Mekoro Morning
Mekoro – a shallow narrow wooden boat that is poled by a guide with two people aboard through the delta-marsh – Prow as our guide and poler.  Our game guide Russ went ahead in his own Mekoro to assure no Hippos or Crocodiles abound.

What a beautiful way to see another level of the bush – a different space and place of African wildlife – the little ones – Insects – Frogs – Fish – Water Fowl – Otter – and Birds of the marsh – we learned so much.  It was so peaceful and quiet – Prow was from a river tribe – he was an outstanding boat man.  We had lunch on an island and then headed back for camp.  On the way back to Vumbura – we heard over the radio – “Cheetah.”  We raced out into the bush.  There alone resting on top of a termite mound – in an island of flowing wind blown grass – is a young lone Cheetah male – sleeping in the shade of the trees.  That’s all I can put into words.  It was “Duma” – my favorite cat.  A magic moment!

September 15th Afternoon Game Drive
It all starts with tea and a snake in the tree.  While sleeping between game drives – an Elephant had come into camp and pulled down half a tree on to the Camp veranda.  By chance a snake got caught in the crash and hung up in the tree – tried to rescue – but the snake didn’t make it!  While all this is happening – a voice comes over the radio – “Cheetah.”  we jump into the Landcruiser and off we drive to find “Duma.”  We locate him under a new tree by the lagoon.  He is there watching three Tsessebe – far off in the distance – but not making a move – we wait – wait and wait – then decide to leave.  Another great game drive.  We stop for “Sundowners” by a Hippo pool.  One giant male Hippo puts on a show – shooting out of the water – opening its mouth to a 180 degree – then would fall back with a giant splash – returning to do it again and again – also a huge Crocodile on the bank – over there a Saddle Billed Stork – and with a glass of wine in her hand Cathy says “I would sure like to see a Hyena.”  Well, within five minutes, Russ feels like something is behind us – he turns around and within five feet of the truck is a Hyena looking at us. (on this entire trip Cathy was the good luck charm.) We sat and watched the sunset – then followed the Hyena along the roadside loping at an incredible speed for miles. Then all of a sudden – Russ spotted a Honey Badger (a rare sighting) totally cool animal – looks like a huge Mongoose or Ferret – normally you don’t see them for long.  Very shy and fast – but this one was digging out a rodent from its hole.  Finally, the rodent jumped from his hole and the Honey Badger caught him in mid-air and he chomped him down.   The Honey Badger is considered one of the toughest – meanest – bad-ass animals in Africa – it has earned its ferocious reputation – a true story – a Honey Badger took down and killed a Water Buffalo – he did this by jumping up and grabbing onto – a passing Water Buffalo’s balls – hanging on for dear life – he finally bites off the Buffalo’s testicles – the Buffalo bled to death – (Buffalo Bill balls for dinner.)  That is one tough varmint!

September 16 – As I awake from the African night listening – watching – feeling the night slowly turn to day – the Insects – the Frogs – the Birds – the Monkeys – as the light and sounds slowly change.  The color of the sky over the lagoon dances in ever-changing hues – slowly – oh, so slowly. It’s finally happened!  What day is it?  What time is it? I’ve stopped thinking – dreaming – racing – chasing the thoughts of my mind – worrying about work – my family – my staff – the sale of the business – global problems!  There is a natural rhythm to time, the sun and life in the bush – in our busy lives and through our distorted concept of time – we are not able to live by it.  

This is what Africa does for me – this is one of the things I tell people about how Africa has changed my life.  A peace – the essence of time – a relationship with the earth – being a part of the flow in nature – where as far as you can see – hear – smell – or sense – you are one with nature.  This is where I am closest to God!  The Great Spirit!  Within his creation and balance.

The staff comes with coffee and a wake-up “Hello.”  A morning game drive with Russ – he has brought me a great book on the earliest known tribes and people of Botswana “The Sans People.”  I have been searching since Cape Town – asking at each camp – for books – any information on the local tribes – the people of Africa and their area – Russ explains that there are no histories written – no need.  It was all passed down in stories – music – their way of life – the family traditions – before colonization and outside settlers started to write a history of the people.  Often we don’t realize Africa’s way of life is still very tribal.  Even today on the national – regional – and local levels – cultural, political, social and judicial elements are influenced and guided by the tribal elders.  Justice and decisions are made by, or with the input of the tribal chief.  If a teenager or man is caught committing a crime (say taking his neighbor’s cow to plow his field and does not ask) he is taken to the chief – it will be determined who’s story is true – the chief will decide “justice” – then the criminal will be given a number of lashes and disgraced within the tribe.

Morning game drive – Bateleur Eagle first thing out of the shoot – awesome.  Then on to a Hyena den.  You just can’t imagine the fun – eight cubs playing – two different sizes – small and very small.  They are all being a real pest to their one-year-old brother – squealing – jumping – tumbling down the sides of a huge termite mound – within the mound there was an enormous den that housed all of them (Grey Hyenas) and the three mothers – who lay about (20) yards away trying to sleep – looking to catch some rest after last night’s hunt and this morning’s suckling – we stayed about an hour.  We had a great game drive and saw unbelievable game – we then asked Russ to teach us more about tracking – Russ gave us a lesson in Leopard tracking.  We had some fresh tracks to follow.  We lost the Leopard – started on Lion – then far in the distance – we see a female Lion – lying under a tree on a termite mound – beyond her in the distance is a herd of 300 to 400 Water Buffalo crossing a lagoon.  Russ says “She’s watching them” – he takes off – we figure she’ll make an attempt to kill – but we lose her in the tall grass and trees – we try to position ourselves between the Lioness and Buffalo.  We wait and watch – it’s a huge herd – all ages – thousands of flies – then at the very end of the herd – alone – crippled – an old bull – which you know is the perfect kill for a Lion – wait – wait – wait – no Lion.  The entire herd has now crossed.  We try to find the Lion.  Russ spots a Hooded Vulture flying by – he says sometimes they can take you to the Cat – we follow the Vulture.  There lying in the tall grass – a large male with a  beautiful  mane – two females and four cubs – all sleeping with full stomachs.  We hung out with them – learned another lesson from the bush – you don’t always see what you think should – never expect – accept – it was a great day.  Back to camp for lunch and some reading – research – and sleep.

Afternoon – Fly Fishing Trip and Children in the Wilderness Meeting (C.I.T.W.)  The Wilderness Safari Company’s Environmental Education Program.  Helena is the coordinator in Maun for this program.  I had e-mailed her supervisor Heather in Johannesburg prior to our trip and she had Helena come out to meet me because of my involvement and background in Environmental Education (E.E.) and with the IUCN Education Commission.

As previously mentioned – Garrett the camp General Manager – was a fly fishing nut and an expert fisherman.  One night at dinner I gave him some of the Salmon flies I had brought from home to try on the Zambezi River – he loved them.  He then invited me to go out with him and his top guide “Sparks” – out on to the Delta to fly fish.  By the end of the day my nickname for “Sparks” was “Dr. Smooth.”  Unbelievable, his high speed navigation and crusin’ flow through the Papyrus reed channels of the Okavango Delta – he was the meister – of the Hippo Highway.  He also knew where the fish were – so Sparks – Garrett – Helena – and I go out fishin’!  We combined the meeting with Helena on the boat and fishing. Helena and I talk C.I.T.W. program while doing some fishing.  Caught a beautiful Breen fish – birds – sunset – fly fishing on the Delta – what could be better.  While I was out fishing Cath went out on a game drive with Russ – saw (14) Giraffe running at the river – an African Wild Cat and a Great Eagle Owl.

September 17 – Sunrise – coffee then out on a walking safari with Russ – Irene and Robin.  It’s all at a new level – you’re out of the vehicle – its protection – on the ground – “a walking safari” – it’s quiet – peaceful – a totally new experience – your senses heighten – sight – sound – smells – touch.  Looking for game – watching where you walk – the trees – the flora and fauna – tracking from the smallest to the largest – Leopard – Termites – Insects – tremendous learning experience with Russ – he knows his stuff – very intense experience – we only spent an hour because the Botswana government didn’t allow walking safaris at this time – due to the number of Elephants and the stress they were in due to drought.

We headed back for camp on a short game drive – wouldn’t you know – Leopard – our first of the trip – rare to see – why ? – shy – sly – wary.  Great looking male sleeping in the “Y” of a huge tree hanging out on a branch – he woke – kept looking over to his right – Russ thought maybe hiding his kill from last night – too heavy to take up tree?  A Leopard can lift – jump straight up a tree – climbing with a kill weighing twice his weight.  He relocated in the tree – went to sleep – we left him.

Wow – what a great morning!  Went back to camp – quick brunch – pack and drive to the airport.  We loved Vumbura Plains and its people – especially Russ.  On drive to airport with Russ we visited the Leopard who had moved to the ground under the tree in the shade – saw a great herd (50 plus) of Elephants at the water hole – everything else along the way – just as before Cathy said “Oh, I wish we could see a Sable” – “you know you only see them in this area and King’s Pool” – and it’s true – not more than 10 minutes later – Russ spots two lone Black Sable – magnificent!  Their long horns curling over their backs.  What a spot and Cathy Luck!

On to the airport – our pilot is Jonathan – off to King’s Pool Camp.  Situated in the same 125,000 hectare private concession as Duma Tau and Savuti, bordering Chobe National park to the west.  Wildlife abounds in this area, especially massive herds of Elephants during the dry winter months.  There are also very good populations of Impala – Lechwe – Kudu – Zebra – Giraffe – Sable – Waterbuck – Buffalo, and the smaller plains Antelope.  The major predators such as Lion – Leopard – Cheetah – Wild Dog and Hyena are regularly sighted.  The reed and papyrus swamps are ideal for numerous and diverse species of birds and are a magnet for wildlife in the dry winter months.  Activities include day and night wildlife viewing drives from open 4×4 vehicles.  There are also two productive wildlife viewing hides.  One overlooks the lagoon while the underground hide allows guests to sit almost within arm’s reach of Elephant’s feet and trunks in safety – simply amazing!

Kahn picks us up at the airport.  Introductions at camp – Nick and Carrie (managing couple – we now find out this is pretty standard – young couple looking for adventure – x-guides – cheap labor – come to live great life style – not married.)

Nice rooms – different style – old stately British Hunting Lodge – we unpack – lunch – meet our guide for King’s Pool – Odi.  This is Elephant and Hippo heaven – plus we also came here to see Wild Dog.

Our afternoon game drive with Odi starts with a Tawny Eagle and many, many Elephant – Kudu – Waterbuck – Giraffe – Hippo – Crocs and Zebra – great game.  As we drove out through the Mopane woodland you could see the incredible damage the Elephants were doing to the environment and landscape.  It is said that Botswana has between 120,000 to 150,000 Elephants. (The largest concentrations anywhere in the world.)

The diverse problems – all the stakeholders – the farmers – guides – tourist industry – government parks/rangers that have to control and confine Elephants – the research experts with their varied views – culling and reducing the numbers immediately vs. waiting for nature to solve the problem.  The current imbalance of nature – we are all linked in some way – connected – what will happen if we take the action?  What if we don’t – Big issue!  “Over population of the Elephant” – Everyone we talked to had an opinion – never the same solution.

Our drive continued to a pair of mating Lions making love – do you know that Lions make love (copulate) – every 15 minutes – all day and night for 6 to 7 days – straight – non-stop?  It’s wild!  It’s beautiful!  Then we came upon another lone male – then just over the next hill a second pair of mating.  This was the Savuti Pride and The Boys – “The Border Boys.” 

Okay, here is my poem and story of  “The Border Boys” – they’ve fought it out – they have their hierarchy – they know their place.  The bad boys.  The “Border Boys”

“THE BORDER BOYS”

The Border Boys
Six brothers they came
Seven years-old, the story goes

No one knows
Where they came from
On their way, to King’s Pool

Namibia to Botswana
Border river they swam
The Linyanti, is her name

Bad Boys all six
They came as a gang
To fight “Alto”, for his Savuti Pride

“Alto” never seen again
They killed all the males
Then the cubs, to start their life again

Lionesses loved them
They mated, copulated
Every fifteen minutes, they’d roar

Nothing stopped them
The perfect specimens
The ultimate genes, to pass on

Strong and beautiful
The “Border Boys”
Greek Gods, of the Okavango

Return from the Delta
To share their kill
All for their, Savuti Pride

They hunted at night
Like no other team
They could take, anything down

Elephant, Hippos,
Leopards, Giraffe,
Baboons, Buffalo and the like

These “Border Boys”
Where did they come from?
Like a mirage, in the night

Their story to be told
They’ve come to King’s Pool
To carry on, the Savuti Pride

Upon returning to the camp we got cleaned up for dinner and went to the bar – sat at the campfire.  It happened again – we were treated to another incredible evening by the staff – the local tribe’s music and dance.  We all then proceeded to the “Kgotla (pronounced Hootla) – a circular pen about 100’ in diameter – made out of 12’ – 15’ high stick/poles – creating a huge ceremonial area – every local village had a Kgotla.  A place where the chief would hold court – gather the tribe for village meetings – entertained guests – and met with other important visiting chiefs.  Here a fine outdoor bush dinner was served with original native foods.  Great night – music – dancing and food under the African stars!                                                                                        

September 18 – Morning game drive – there was word in camp last night that a Leopard was spotted – so off we went with Odi  – teaching us the different methods of tracking – How to track by sound – following the alarm calls – how to listen – for the Vervet Monkey “they never lie” – Baboon – Squirrels – Impala – Francolin – Horn Bill – Grey Lorie “Go Away Bird.”  Then there’s the foot and body tracks in the earth – what kind of animal? – what direction traveling? – how long ago the tracks were made? – all these methods help the guides locate and spot wildlife.

So, as we’re tracking Leopard – Odi our guide and friend – tells us a story about what happened three weeks ago.  How three big male Baboons took down and killed a local Leopard he knew – he loved – yes, a brutal story.  So as he finished his story – he joyfully told us the tale of “The Big Baboon.”

                                                   “THE BIG BABOON”

It was a quiet afternoon out on the Okavango Delta – as six male Lions were slowly cruising through the bush – on a lazy summer day. Far – far – far off in the distance.  There was a huge – mean – dominant male Baboon – king of his harem.  Bathing in the warm sun – he stood sentry over his troop on the top branch of a beautiful Acacia tree.  As he rested there scanning the horizon – he spotted the six Lions approaching – he rose to his feet and let out a giant roar – HOHOHOOO.  He stomped and jumped on the branch at the same time – making quite a scene.  The entire tree shook and quivered with each of his screams – roars – shrieks.  Well, it didn’t seem to bother the Lions – “Kings of the Jungle.”  As the Lions came closer – and closer – the giant Baboon with his long teeth snarling – spitting – shouted louder and louder.  HOHOHOOO – HOHOHOOO – shaking the branch with all his might – the entire tree swayed back and forth – the leaves were falling like snow – but slowly and quietly the Lions just kept coming.  As they arrived at his tree – oh so very close – they were now directly beneath “The Big Baboon” – well, he let out a roar like you’ve never heard before – his loudest ever – with all his teeth shining – screaming – HOHOHOOO – HOHOHOOO – HOHOHOOO – swinging on his branch from side to side – like a mad man.  Suddenly – in an instant – without a second’s warning – the branch he stood on snapped – he fell to the ground with giant a thud – right into the middle of the six Lions.  It was his last day – what a great meal for the Lions! – We all laughed.

Following Odi’s story – we continue our morning game drive – as we came around a bend on the dirt road down by the river – we spotted a Mother Fish Eagle and her two young eaglets – she was teaching them to fly for the first time – as we sit and watched – we spotted a Leopard – a young female about two-years-old – Odi knew her – she was Moltopi.

                                                        “MOLTOPI”
                                                          Steve Hulbert
                                                                  &
                                                Odumetse Modikwa – “Odi”

The story of Moltopi – the most beautiful young female Leopard – you’ve ever seen!

“Moltopi” is the daughter of “Bosbia” – Moltopi also had a brother – he had been recently killed by Baboons.  Upon reaching the age of two-years-old Moltopi had separated from her mother – which is natural for Leopards – for they are strictly solitary animals.  Losing her son made Bosbia very sad – she was so moved by his death that Bosbia did something very rare for Leopards – she started to reunite with her daughter – Moltopi.  Bosbia did this by inviting Moltopi to share in her kills and eat together – Moltopi started to do the same – they would stay together for a few days then split up again to hunt separately.  This was a very special relationship in the animal world – especially for Leopards.  They were a unique mother and daughter.

It was a cool – beautiful – blue sky morning – on the banks of the Linyanti River in the Okavango Delta of Botswana – a mother Fish Eagle had coaxed her two baby eaglets out of their nest for the first time – high in the branches of the Morani trees – she was perched – watching her two babies – flap and flutter – from tree to tree – making their way – experiencing flight for the first time.  It was a wondrous sight – Fish Eaglets learning to fly!  As all this commotion took place – a beautiful female Leopard raised her head from a deep sleep – hidden in the branches of a Mopane tree – she slowly rose and scanned the landscape.  Moltopi was her name – she quickly jumped from branch to branch down the tree – to the ground – like a sleek stealth ghost – she launched into another tree just a few yards away – she shot up like a rocket – up – up – up – bouncing branch to branch – what’s she doing?  Leopards are supposed to sleep during the day?  Higher and higher she danced – why? Where was she going?  Then without warning – from out of the shadows – the mother Fish Eagle came soaring in with talons flashing – straight at Moltopi – KAKAKA – screaming – whistling – she glanced at Moltopi’s side

and flew away – again and again, KAKAKA!  Whooshing – dive bombing – attacking Moltopi – without a flinch Moltopi climbed higher and higher.  The attacks continued – until Moltopi – finally got to her destination – the nest!  It was huge – at least four feet wide and three feet high – it was the nest of the eaglets and their mother.

Moltopi reached up and peered over the lip of the nest – there was no one home – what a lucky day –  they were out learning to fly!  Moltopi slowly came down the tree with nothing to eat – picked her a branch – laid down – closed her eyes – and went to sleep once more – until night came – her time to hunt.

September 18 – Afternoon Game Drive
We went out to see “The Border Boys” and the endurance mating session.  It looks like one of the brothers kicked out the other (he had a bad neck wound from a snare) and had taken over his duties – every 15 minutes.  The one released of his duties was sleeping under brush – the other brother was still at it – but it looks like the girls also switched partners in the night.

We drove on to an Elephant carcass to see if there was any action.  There was a one-year-old cub who had been kicked out of the pride because his mother died – Odi knew the cub – he was too young when he lost his family and had not learned to hunt – he was out on his own as a scavenger – eating anything to keep himself alive – he was not long for the world – “The Border Boys” would do him in.  We headed back to camp – we stopped for Sundowners – Cath went out back behind a tree – to take a leak – where she spotted through the thickets – three huge male Sables – two were rutting – locking horns and fighting – baby Giraffe sitting under a tree and a Honey Badger.  Good Day, Good Night!

September 19 – Morning game drive with Odi.  Everyone said let’s go see Wild Dogs –Wild Dogs had been seen last night by others in camp – Odi said yes – but then didn’t –  Odi was hooked on the Cats – “The Border Boys” and Leopards. It was our only disappointment of the trip – not seeing “Wild Dogs.”  As Cath said “I’ll see them before I die.”  Word at camp was the “Border Boys” had taken down a buffalo last night – so Odi took off straight to the carcass.  Long drive – many sightings along the way – all the regular game – Hippos, Elephants, Kudi, Arnot’s Chat – all kinds of Birds.  When we got to the Buffalo all that was left was bones and small scraps – no “Border Boys.” – only the lone baby cub picking at what was left.  We moved on down to the river where we found the “Boys” – still rockin’ – a copulation every 15 minutes.  We headed back to camp for lunch and a snooze.  On the way, two Fish Eagles mating on ground, Roan Antelope, and 24 Elephants crossing the river from Namibia.

As we reached camp – we were greeted with a surprise lunch at the underground hide.  King’s Pool Camp has built a fresh water pond 200′ – 300’ round – its water is pumped from an underground well to form the pond – it is very tasty water for the dry thirsty animals.  Along side the pond they had sunken into the earth a metal container about the size of a train box-car.  They’ve covered over the top with soil – then cut (4) 18” x 36” slots for windows – so as you sit – you are viewing at Elephant feet/water surface level.  Well, we walked down the stairs to fine china – wine – lunch – champagne – cheese and fruit, etc.  Yes, it was incredible.  We watched as six then eight Elephants came to the pond.  It was like a movie – they had no idea we were there.  Drinking – bathing – mud baths – throwing dust over their backs – out of this world.  Then a Roan Antelope appears – he spends time with us and then was gone.  Odi then says we’ve been here an hour – time to go – so the next group can come down and view.  As he ascends he suddenly stops – turns around and comes running down the stairs – huge Elephant herd coming in from behind us – we must stay.  Thirty-two Elephants eventually fill the pond – blowing water – drinking – playing with their babies – bathing – then it was like a flood of Elephants – from every direction in the distance.  As you looked out of the hide – families were waiting to come in – to take their turn – quietly as they came – one family would leave – another would come.  They came right to the hide’s windows – sniffing – smelling – listening – looking for us – so close you could have reached out and touched the tip of their trunk.  What can I say – trapped by 100 plus Elephants.  They’d drink – play – spin and walk away.  We finally got out – headed back to the room – to take a nap – but the Hippos were snorting and fighting all afternoon.  We plunged – read and slept.

September 19 – Afternoon game drive with Odi – our last at King’s Pool.  We saw all the regular game – Elephants – Hippos – Monkeys – Giraffe – Birds – Baboon – Impala – Kudu, etc.  We said let’s go find “Wild Dog” – but Odi took us to “Moltopi.”

Late in the afternoon that day – as Moltopi slept in the branch of an African Mangosteen tree – resting in the shade – she waited for the sun to go down – so she could go hunt in the darkness of night. A troop of 30-40 Baboons were far – far off in the distance and were approaching slowly – they were heading in her direction.  The Baboons – were rolling – tumbling – cleaning each other – picking the seeds off the ground – playing as the Baboons – always do.  As Moltopi lay camouflaged in the tree – she dreamed of her mother and brother – the Baboons passed off to her left – but it being such a large troop – they spread out like a giant wave.  Then out of the clear silence came a huge roar – a scream alert – rang out like a piercing shot – all the Baboons start screaming – louder and louder – HOHOHO – HOHOHO – YAYAYAK.  Moltopi awakes from her slumber to the horror of looking down on thirty Baboons surrounding her tree.  Running – screaming – circling – they start to climb up towards Moltopi.  She shakes herself from her sleep – springs to her feet – bounding up – up – up – to the top branches of the tree – like lightning – higher and higher – out to the thinnest branch – the smallest branch that would support her!  It was unbelievable – the sound – HOHOHO – HOHOHO – YAYAYAK – the attack – the Baboons jumping throughout the tree – shaking and screaming – going closer – closer to Moltopi – they were trying to surround her.  She’s frozen – trapped – what will happen next. A few large female Baboons approach to attack – but she swipes at them with her paw – again and again – they stop – they freeze – it’s a standoff.  For over an hour Moltopi and the Baboons are at a frozen showdown.  Moltopi’s only hope is to wait out the Baboons who must return to their community Palm trees – where they go to sleep for the night – before darkness and their predator the Lions come out to hunt!  No one makes a move for an hour – there’s stillness.  Suddenly – slowly – one Baboon – then the next – start to retreat – slowly climbing down the tree.  Eventually after another hour they all have gone and moved on – No – but one!  He’s 5’ 4” tall – the biggest – baddest – meanest – nastiest looking Baboon you’ve ever seen – look at those fangs – he is the dominant male Baboon of the troop.  The entire time the troop had attacked Moltopi – he sat at the base of Moltopi’s tree – he never moved – he never went up.  He had been waiting – waiting for her to jump out of the tree – trying to make her last dash for life – he hoped that she might break a leg if she jumped – but she didn’t.  Moltopi had survived – held on till the end – now – Mr. Big must go up to get her.  Slowly he starts up the tree – Moltopi is watching his every move.  Then he goes into action – flying branch to branch – like the circus master of the flying trapeze!  In a flash – he is able to get above her.  One large male Baboon can kill a Leopard – if he can attack it from behind or get on her back – but Moltopi stays frozen – covered by leaves and branches.  Mr. Big waits – he can’t figure out how to launch his attack.  It’s another frozen standoff.  After another hour, Mr. Big – moans a soft HOHO – then slowly – very slowly – moves from branch to branch – down the tree – as he gets to the base – he sits and waits again.  As time slowly passes – Moltopi knows – if she can wait till darkness comes – he will leave.  Finally, Mr. Big slowly – ever so slowly – heads off to his troop.  Moltopi waits – waits and waits – making sure she’s safe to live another day in the bush!

We watched this scene from our Landcruiser at the base of the tree for over three hours.  It is the most powerful experience I have ever encountered in Africa.  Blown away, what can I say?

September 20 – Breakfast – Drive to airport with Nick.  We take off with our pilot Pedro on Sefofane’ Airlines.  King’s Pool to Kasane – Upon take off we fly over an area of a recent major bush fire – hundreds square miles burned – no way to fight them – no equipment and no roads!  Pedro then gives us an aerial safari – first flying over the four corner areas of Africa – where Botswana – Namibia – Zambia – and Zimbabwe – all touch each other.  Then he descends down to a couple hundred feet over the Chobe River.  Local fishermen setting nets – Sable – Zebra – Buffalo – Cattle – Waterbuck – Elephants – Hippos, etc.  We land Kasane.  Customs at airport – rough.  A poster in the restroom reads – one in every three people in Botswana is infected with HIV/AIDS.  This is the country’s biggest concern.  How can you grow population and economy if everyone is dying?

Out of Kasane on Livingstone Airlines – Bad plane –”our good one is in for maintenance” – up the Chobe River to the border where it turns into the Zambezi River – Victoria Falls – one of the true wonders of the world.  The pilot flies us up the river – circles twice over the falls – breathtaking – like the Grand Canyon with waterfalls – into Livingstone Airport – customs for Zambia.  On to Lusaka on Zambian Airlines – nice big twenty-four passenger plane.  Heather meets us – customs and a Cessna flight out to Royal Airstrip – on to Camp Chiawa.

Mike meets us at the Royal Airstrip.  He then drives us down to the Zambezi River – there at the dock was the (CLZ) Conservation Lower Zambezi Environmental Education Center – Mike introduced us to the staff and Adrianne – the General Manager/Director – we then board a pontoon fishing boat – waiting for us are two director folding chairs – in style –  Mike cruised us up the Zambezi River to Chiawa Camp.  The Zambezi River is huge – long and wide – it is 2700km long – it is the fourth longest river in Africa after the Nile, Niger, and Congo Rivers.
As we landed, we were met by Grant and Lynsey Cumings (the oldest son and his wife) of the family which founded and own the camp.  Also met Lisa – Camp Director – great people – they gave us the overview and tour of Chiawa Camp.

HISTORY OF CHIAWA CAMP – THE LOWER ZAMBEZI
“Chiawa”:  Goba for “a good place to rest,” especially after a long journey.  Chiawa Camp gets its name from Chiawa Village, in respect for the local people whose land traditionally extended into what is now the Lower Zambezi National Park.  Renowned explorers like Frederick C. Selous passed through this area on their wanderings while, just downstream of the Park’s eastern boundary, David Livingstone’s hopes of navigating the Zambezi River from the Indian Ocean were dashed with his boat in the notorious Cabora Bassa rapids.

Inhabited by the Goba and Nsenga people, this area was for centuries a hunter and slave traders’ paradise, supplying the Portuguese in what is now Mozambique the infamous Chief Kanyemba kept a slave post on Kanyemba Island opposite the Kafue/Zambezi confluence, where remains of the old stockades can still be seen.

What is now the Lower Zambezi National Park, formally received its status in 1983 soon after the Rhodesia/Zimbabwe bush war.  Dave Cumings and his sons, along with a few other adventurers, would explore these remote and virtually unheard of reaches at every opportunity.  In 1986, Dave suggested that the family expand their already successful safari operation into the Lower Zambezi.  It took two years to finally get the very first concessions for the Lower Zambezi National Park and in 1988, after pitching a couple of tents, under the Winterthorn trees across from what is now Chiawa Camp, they set about opening up and protecting the area.

Initially they had to cut the first vehicle tracks into the park, bringing with them the very first National Parks and Wildlife Services (now ZAWA) scouts into the area.  Poaching was rife and the first year was spent literally clearing out poachers and exploring the park.  Finally, in July 1989, Chiawa Camp opened its tent flaps to the public, bringing a new concept of conservation, and “Responsible Tourism” to Zambia.

In 1992, a new elected government came into Zambia and in so doing, opened up the area to almost uncontrolled development.  It was quickly apparent that the protection of the Lower Zambezi was as crucial as ever, and Chiawa Camp became one of the founder members of Conservation Lower Zambezi (CLZ).  This organization has grown into one of Africa’s most successful conservation organizations.

September 20 – Game Drive – We depart at 4:00 p.m. with Spencer who became our guide and friend – within ten minutes we came upon two female Lions.  Spencer has tracked them by sound – they are both calling out OOHU, OOOHU – one gets up – goes and lies down next to the other – slowly rolls over to touch the other – Spencer explains that they are sisters from the same pride – through their cries – they are trying to find their family – their pride.  Spencer then begins to tell us the story of the Chiawa Pride – what used to be two prides joined as one and currently has a total of (15) Lions – the dominant male – Douglas – six sister Lionesses and several males and cubs of varying ages.  A special trait that the Chiawa Pride has is that they can climb trees – it is believed this tree climbing is used to escape the heat and numerous flies with the breeze that comes off the river – it is very hot in Chiawa – today in the afternoon it got up to 105F degrees – hot.  Spencer then explains that last night two males Lions had swam across the Zambezi River from Zimbabwe to Zambia – about two miles upstream from camp – sounds like “The Border Boys.”  They had come to fight Douglas and take over the Chiawa Pride – right now we don’t know the outcome? – as the entire pride has separated – spread out and split up – the fight occurred last night – these are two of the sisters from the pride – crying out into the night – to find – to reconnect with their family.  On our drive back to camp we stopped – shut off all lights and sat in the darkness of the African night – listened – felt the wind on our skin – smelled the air – tasted the night – gazed at the stars and moon – beyond description – an African night!  In our final moments of the drive we saw one lone sister Lioness searching – walking along the road in the night trying to find the pride as well.  We had a beautiful dinner that night (each evening’s social hour and dinner would start off with the “Chiawa Boys.”  Eight male staff members singing the local Zambian songs – they were outstanding!

September 21 – Morning Game Drive
It was a beautiful morning – we awoke to a staff member bringing coffee and tea to our tent – 5:30 a.m.  Up and at it – down for some breakfast around a campfire – a large circular pit area right next to the river.  Off on our morning game drive with Spencer (very similar to Botswana as far as seeing incredible game and birds every day.)  Again this morning – we came upon a mother Lioness with 3 cubs (2) female and (1) male – all about six-months-old – sleeping on the warm rocks – so little and cute – so beautiful – family members of the Chiawa Pride – we drove on.  Many Birds – Elephants – Buffalo – Monkeys – Impala, etc.  Then as we turned on to “Lazy Baboon Road” – (the same as all the other roads – a rutted dusty dirt road) – Spencer spotted a female Leopard sleeping in the “Y” of a tree – we sat with her for fifteen to twenty minutes – wouldn’t you know – three huge male Baboons – walking – stalking – come up and surrounded the base of her tree – it’s happening again – Cath and I can’t believe it – a huge Baboon family appears – but this time it’s only the three males that climb the tree – the action intensifies – the males try a couple attacks – she fights them off.  By this time Spencer is on the radio calling to let the other guides know about the Leopard – but also to come and circle the base of the tree – maybe – unofficially – help save our Leopard.  Spencer knew her and didn’t want to see her die – but at the same time – it is park regulation that you never interfere with any animals or nature.  We wait in horror – then another two Landcruisers arrive – we leave – she lives.  Back to camp to read – research – sun – fun – swim.

September 21 – Evening Game Drive
Spencer and Wallace – off we go – after a great wildlife drive – we have a Sundowner – darkness sets in – tracking by sound – Spencer hears off in the distance – OUH – OUH – OUH – its Douglas! Oh Ya! – He’s alive – he’s survived – he’s fought off the two Zimbabwe males – Douglas is traveling alone – he is calling into the night for his pride.  Douglas is estimated to be 8-years-old – it was only a year ago that his brother Daniel was killed by a Water Buffalo – previously Daniel had been the dominant male – now Douglas has taken his place.  Douglas is now the leader of the Chiawa Pride – he is a powerful male with a large mane and beautiful body.  But within the year Douglas has had to twice – fight to defend his position – the two male Lions from Zimbabwe – they had come to kill him – take his pride – kill all the males and cubs and then breed with the females.  It was only 30 days ago he had his first run-in – then again two nights ago – he had to battle – they will be back!  Douglas is laying next to the roadside – he then looks up at us – stands and turns – he slowly walks in front of the Landcruiser – takes a steaming dump in the headlights – turns and looks at us again – then slowly walks away – alone – calling into the night.  OUH-OUH-OUH – we head back to camp.

September 21 – Dinner on the Zambezi – a special evening affair is put together by the Chiawa staff for our anniversary – we started the social hour as usual – with the songs of the “Chiawa Boys” – but as the camp’s guests were escorted to the dining area – Lisa and Captain Clements sneak us away to the pontoon boat at the river’s edge – a candle lit table – fine china – wine – an appetizers.  Captain Clements pilots the boat out to the middle of the Zambezi – drops anchor – another boat has followed – picks up Captain Clements – alone under the stars and moon – alone on the Zambezi – gourmet dinner – fine wine – desert – the sounds – the starlight –Wow – alone with Cath – my “Zambezi Queen.”  What a night – what a memory!

September 22 – Awoke early – coffee and breakfast at the campfire – today we are going on a walking safari – with Paul – a most experienced guide – ten years at Chiawa Camp – extremely knowledgeable.  His family lives in Zimbabwe – where he grew up – a very difficult time and country to be living in today.

It was a great experience – we trekked for over three hours on foot in the bush – he explained the history of the tribe and culture of the Chiawa area – then every insect and animal – ants – bats – tracks – birds – mammals – again it’s hard to put into words – but to hike in the bush – to track on foot – creates a new perspective – an intensity that gets you out of body – no protection with a vehicle – just yourself and the earth – also a new awareness of senses – seeing Buffalo, Elephants, and Leopard tracks – you’re on the ground with them – in their world – back to camp – sleep – read – swim.

September 22 – Lunch on the Zambezi “The Locals Finally Talk”
Mike and Lisa host a special lunch aboard the pontoon boat for two couples – celebrating their birthdays – Cath and I for her 50th – another couple from the camp who were Americans  – they had been living in Zambia – Lusaka for the last two years.  The wife was a liaison for the U.S. government in The Office of Finance for the Zambia government – she was there to help Zambia build and restructure their bonds and investment markets.  Her husband worked for the U.S. Embassy – he never gave his job description – she wore the pants in this family – one tough B—ch!
As I asked questions about the Zambian economy and local scene – both Mike and Lisa and the couple broke open the flood gates – explaining that it was not only in Zimbabwe – but all of Southern Africa – Zambia – Zimbabwe – Botswana and South Africa – all are living on the “the edge” – with the same problems that Zimbabwe faces with their real estate, inflation and business economy – this is happening in all the South African countries –  just in varying degrees.  It’s land and business ownership reparation – the governments are taking over the land and businesses to give back to the (native) blacks.  If you own a business in Zambia you automatically turn over 51% to the government – they find a black partner for you that is now the majority owner – often times not qualified or does not have expertise in the business.  Corruption and bribery sets in.  Even the people in Cape Town and Johannesburg are afraid and scared for their safety – the main economic forces of entire Southern Africa are driven through these two cities.  So all people – from the most affluent – to the most local level – are frightened for their future – inflation – economic stability – jobs – their safety!  As the wife said – “there will be no investing from the outside world” – the countries presidents and leaders are all crooks – breeding corruption and bribery – it’s going to implode!  And all you tourists jut float through this situation – without seeing – feeling or knowing what under lies it all.

September 22 – Afternoon  – People come from all over the world – to the lower Zambezi to fish – for what is known as the world’s greatest fighting fish – the “Tiger Fish” –  At Chiawa Camp – three world-record Tiger Fish have been caught.  Until you see one you won’t believe them.  Shaped like a large Salmon-Perch combo – a wide body – with perch scales – a citrus rainbow of colors across the body – oranges – yellows – aqua blue greens – beautiful – then the set of teeth – ½” to 1” long – a full mouth – vicious – Wow!  The best Tiger fishing is in the heat of the day – they like it hot – over 100 degrees.  We have come at the right time of the year.  Captain Issac – a great young man – who’s family and tribe come from just down the river – he has grown up on the river – with his father and family who have fished all their lifes for a living  – to trade and barter with his people – Issac knows where the fish are!  Issac knows the Zambezi.  On the front of the boat I labored the entire afternoon trying to catch a Tiger on a fly – I had brought Issac some Salmon flies from the great Pacific Northwest to try along with his Tiger flies – but I was skunked – Cath fished with calf heart bait – wouldn’t you know – the way it always goes – she hooked – landed and released the most beautiful 9 ½ lbs. Tiger you’ve ever seen – why is it the chicks always catch the fish?  We had an unbelievable day of fishing on the Zambezi – we chased a spectacular sunset back to camp – on the waters of life.

September 22 – Night game drive with Spencer.  A beautiful night and we are driven to a most secluded spot along the river – with a huge wall – a massive cliff of stalactite columns carved out of the earth from the rain and erosion – it was stunning – with huge campfires – a long formal dining table – again – fine china – wine – and a special meal of local foods – all served by chefs and staff – a true bush dinner!  Prior to dinner David Cumings the Chiawa Camp founder came over to talk and spent time with Cath and I.  He told us the story of how he started Chiawa Camp – he grew up and went to school in South Africa – was a tremendous athlete and competed at international levels of karate – he then became a very successful businessman in South Africa.  About 20 years ago he and friends explored the Zambezi – found this sight – its game and ambience – they loved it – so he brought his family back to start Chiawa Camp.  He has been a leader in conservation – local environmental education – anti-poaching – Rhino reinstatement with World Wildlife Fund.  He was very proud of his family’s involvement and leadership in the Conservation Lower Zambezi Organization – he had been drinking quite a bit and let loose – opening up to the local problems – that the local Chief (she) has a financial stake in a hunting camp – just outside the park – so she works against the conservation and educational programs – telling the tribal members – it’s all “B.S.” – God put the animals here for us to use – a resource – a crop – to kill – to harvest – to sell – to eat.  David was very discouraged – one step forward – two steps back – “two things endemic to Africa, crime and corruption” – it all leads up and back down from the top political leaders and those running the countries.  We then had a great dinner – music and dance – back to the camp.

September 23 – Morning Fishin’ on the Zambezi with Issac and Mike – Mike a top guide in camp has become a friend – he had the day off and asked us if we would all like to go out fishin’ together – Oh ya! – great fun and fishin’ – had by all – but Cath the only one to catch a Tiger – that’s right another Tiger fish – 8 ½ lbs. – Mike and I trying flies – snagged trees – stumps – and the bottom – but “no” fish – when at the end of the day Cath asked Mike – “how often he goes fishing?”  “Oh, a lot – every time I can – my days off.”  Mike, “what’s the biggest Tiger Fish you’ve caught?”  “A two-pounder!”  Well, not another word said – Cath in two days had landed a 9 ½ and 8 ½ pounder – Oh ya!  Back to the camp – sun – fun – and sleep .

September 23 – Afternoon Float – Canoe trip down a side channel of the Zambezi with Laxson and a team of young men being trained to become guides – again another level “zone” of the Zambezi – an African experience – quiet – peaceful – relaxing – a day on the water with no motor – the entire afternoon through sunset – unbelievable birds – wildlife – Lizards – Hippos – Crocs – it was great!

September 23 – Last night in camp – last night in the bush.
Night drive with Daniel and Spencer – two minutes out of camp – female Leopard resting in the tree – as we watch her – a call came over the radio – it was the Chiawa Pride – they had reunited!  As we raced through the darkness on the dirt roads – dust flying – lights flashing – crashing through the bush – we come upon Douglas and one female – with them were three young cubs – laying – just resting in the tall grass – suddenly – Douglas jumps up first – then the female – the cubs follow – they start off in a trot  – then opened up into a full run – down the dirt road just in front of us – through the thickets – we’re racing as we tried to keep up – cutting through the bush – and then as suddenly as it started – there was the rest of the Chiawa Pride – ten Lions all fighting over a freshly killed Buffalo – Douglas stopped – then trotted on – he left the family to their meal – as he stood and watched over the entire Chiawa Pride – his family as one – together again – what a fitting end to our journey – our last night in the bush!

September 24 – Morning at the campfire and breakfast – we said our goodbyes to the staff – David Cumings takes me for a tour of the behind the scenes of the camp – then coffee – we talk politics and conservation – we say our goodbye to Chiawa and the Zambezi River. Spencer takes us by boat – down to the (CLZ) Conservation Lower Zambezi Environmental Education Center – we meet with Adrianne and the staff – he gave us a tour the facilities – he explains the educational programs – and we meet their (3) month-old orphan baby Elephant – Spencer then drives us to the Royal Airstrip.  As we fly out over the Zambezi River and the escarpment – our thoughts – our dreams turn to Nick (our dog) – Markus (our horse) – our families – our home on the Puget Sound.  We’re on our way – back to the U.S.A. !

 

Wildlife/Others
    
Painted Reed Frog
Wildebeest
Tsessebe
Giraffe
Red Leche
Bush Baby
Crocodile
Monitor Lizard
Sable Red Roan 
African Penguin
Scrub Hare
Spring Hare
Chacoma Baboon
Vervet Monkey
Tree Squirrel
Woodland Squirrel
Porcupine
Honey Badger
Banded Mongoose
Slender Mongoose
Civet
Large Spotted Genet
Small Spotted Genet
Fruit Bat
Slitfaced Bat
Springbok
Hyena
African Wildcat
Serval
Zebra
Warthog
Hippo
Buffalo
Eland
Kudu
Bushbuck
Waterbuck
Impala
Cheetah
Lion
Leopard
Elephant

Birds
    
White-Breasted Cormorant
Reed Cormorant
Darter
Green-Backed Heron
Squacco Heron
Black-Crowned Night Heron
Slaty Egret
Cattle Egret
Little Egret
Great White Egret
Grey Heron
Purple Heron
Goliath Heron
Wattled Crane 
Saddle-Billed Stork 
Marabo Stork
Yellow-Billed Stork
Open-Billed Stork
Sacred Ibis
Hadeda Ibis
White-Faced Whistling Duck
Yellow-Billed Duck
Hottentot Teal
Egyptian Goose
Spur-Winged Goose
Painted Snipe
Common Sandpiper
Crowned Plover    
Blacksmith Plover
White-Crowned Plover
 Caspian Tern
Cape Gull
Hartlaub’s Gull
African Jacana
Avocet
Black-Winged Stilt
Water Dikkop
Ostrich
Kori Bustaris
Red-Crested Korhaan
Crested Francolin
Swainson’s Francolin
Cape Francolin
Helmeted Guinea Fowl
Hooded Vulture
White-Backed Vulture
Lappet-Faced Vulture
Yellow-Billed Kite
Bateleur Eagle
Black-Breasted Snake Eagle
African Fish Eagle
Tawny Eagle
African Hawk Eagle    
Martial Eagle
Southern Marsh Harrior    
Dark-Chanting Goshawk
Pale-Chanting Goshawk
Dickinson Kestrel
Greater Kestrel 
Burchell’s Sandgrouse
Double-Banded Sandgrouse
Emerald-Spotted Dove
Red-Eyed Dove
Cape Turtle Dove
Laughing Dove
Rock Dove
Green Pigeon
Meyer’s Parrot
Grey Lourie Go-Away-Bird
Coppery-Tailed Coucal
White Browed Coucal
Black Coucal
Great Eagle Owl
Pearl-Spotted Owl
Fiery-Necked Nightjar – long wings
Palm Swift
Wire-Tailed Swallow
Red-Breasted Swallow
Swallow-Tailed Bee Eater
Little Bee Eater
Blue-Cheeked Bee Eater
Carmine Bee Eater
White-Fronted Bee Eater
Pied Kingfisher
Malachite Kingfisher
Brown-Hooded Kingfisher
Stripped Kingfisher
Giant Kingfisher
Lilac-Breasted Roller
Broad Bill Roller
Hoopoe
Red-Billed Hoopoe
Trumpeter Hornbill
Ground Hornbill 
Grey Hornbill
Red-Billed Hornbill
Bradfield’s Hornbill
Southern Yellow-Billed Hornbill
Black-Collared Barbet
Crested Barbet
Cardinal Woodpecker
Bearded Woodpecker
Fork-Tailed Drongo
Arnot’s Chat
Yellow Robin
Lesser Grey Shrike
Long-Tailed Shrike
White-Crowned Shrike
Fiscal Shrike
Crimson Breasted Shrike or Boubou
Red-Winged Starling
Plum Colored Starling
Long-Tailed Glossy Starling
Red-Billed Oxpecker
Marico Sunbird
White-Billed Sunbird
Cape Sunbird
Lesser Double-Collared Sunbird
House Sparrow
Great Sparrow
White-Browed Sparrow-Weaver
Red-Billed Quelea
Red-Billed Buffalo Weaver
Spotted-Backed Weaver
Masked Weaver
Red Bishop

Stories and Poems

 
“A MOTHER’S LOVE”

On a hot afternoon deep in the heart of the Okavango Delta – Cathy, a working Elephant – and her new three-month-old baby calf – Little Abu – were out grazing on the green grasses of the Delta – where Little Abu was learning to be an Elephant.  Cathy is the matriarch of the herd from Abu Camp – she had been given a few months off work – to spend time with her Little Abu – to give him a mother’s love – as only a mother can – teaching her calf all that she knew about the world.  As the day stretched on and the afternoon sun became hotter – they found a spot in the shade to rest under an African Sycamore tree – as they slept – it slowly started to rain – at first very slowly – as a fine mist – then a drizzle – then it began to rain – (if you’ve ever been to Africa – you know – how it can rain – oh yes – rain like the devil) – it began to rain very hard – oh, how it rained – buckets – then the wind started to blow – suddenly a crack of lightning – an explosion of rolling thunder – now the rain was blowing sideways!  Cathy thought maybe she should take Little Abu back to the safety of their home – the boma – this is where the Mahouts – their trainers live – with the other elephants.  She started out for home – on their way back they had to cross the Linyanti River – as they entered the river channel there was a low – slow current – the Linyanti is a huge – wide river – as Cathy and Little Abu worked their way across to the far side – it rained harder and harder – the water started to rise – higher and higher – the current became stronger and stronger – when they reached the bank on the other side – they could not climb out – for the steep banks were twelve to fifteen feet high – slipping and sliding in the mud – they could not get out – the river continued to rise and the current grew stronger.  Billy – Cathy and Little Abu’s Mahout – along with all the Mahouts from the boma – began to hear Little Abu’s screams – they rushed out to the river – saw the situation – then tried everything they could – to help Cathy and Little Abu – they found they could do nothing.  Cathy’s feet were still on the river bottom – but Little Abu was now floating.  Cathy held the baby against her body as the river current grew higher and swifter – whenever Little Abu would begin to drift away – Cathy used her trunk to pull the calf back against her body.  Suddenly, the fast rising water washed Little Abu away – Cathy turned – jumped in and plunged downstream over fifty yards to retrieve Little Abu.  Swirling in the tempest of the river – she pinned her baby calf against the bank with her head – then she lifted Little Abu with her trunk – she reared up on her hind legs – there placing Little Abu on a rocky ledge just a few feet above the water.  Cathy then fell backwards – tumbling – rolling – swept away – into the torrents of the Linyanti – disappearing downstream – never to be seen again.  The Mahouts were shocked – their hearts were sickened by the sight of Cathy being taken away – then they heard Little Abu screaming for his mother – they all turned their attention to the calf – which could barely fit on the narrow ledge – alone – cold and shivering.  An hour passed – the river continued to rise – higher and higher – closer to baby Abu – his potential death.  Billy and the Mahouts tried everything they could think of to save him – nothing worked – as Billy peered down – wondering what he might do to rescue Little Abu – he heard the grandest sound he’s ever heard in his life – Phunnnnn Phunnnnn Phunnnnn –the trumpeting of a mother’s love.  Cathy was alive – she had survived – somehow – someplace – she had gotten out of the river – crossed the Linyanti – got up the bank – and was making her way back – running as fast as she could – calling out the whole time to Little Abu – in her loudest defiant roar – Phunnnnn Phunnnnn Phunnnnn – but this was music to Little Abu – Billy and the Mahouts.  Little Abu’s two small ears – like little maps of Africa – were cocked forward listening to the only sounds that mattered – the call of his mother.  When Cathy reached Little Abu and saw that he was safe on the ledge – her call changed to the rumble that Elephants typically make when pleased – everyone was so happy – so tired!  The two Elephants were left that night – where they would let nature take its course.  By morning Little Abu was off the ledge – Cathy had retrieved him somehow – the Linyanti was no longer in flood – Cathy and Little Abu were now headed home to Billy – the Mahouts – their home at the boma and Abu Camp.

(This is a true story – the names and places have changed, but the framework is from the book:  “When Elephants Weep” by Jeffery Moussaieff Masson and Susan McCarthy.)

 

“THE BORDER BOYS”

The Border Boys
Six brothers they came
Seven years-old, the story goes

No one knows
Where they came from
On their way, to King’s Pool

Namibia to Botswana
Border river they swam
The Linyanti, is her name

Bad Boys all six
They came as a gang
To fight “Alto”, for his Savuti Pride

“Alto” never seen again
They killed all the males
Then the cubs, to start their life again

Lionesses loved them
They mated, copulated
Every fifteen minutes, they’d roar
Nothing stopped them
The perfect specimens
Ultimate genes, to pass on

Strong and beautiful
The “Border Boys”
Greek Gods, of the Okavango

Return from the Delta
To share their kill
All for their, Savuti Pride

They hunted at night
Like no other team
They could take, anything down

Elephant, Hippos,
Leopards, Giraffe,
Baboons, Buffalo and the like

These “Border Boys”
Where did they come from?
Like a mirage, in the night

Their story to be told
They’ve come to King’s Pool
To carry on, the Savuti Pride

Steve Hulbert

        

 

So, as we’re tracking Leopard – Odi our guide and friend – tells us a story about what happened three weeks ago.  How three big male Baboons took down and killed a local Leopard he knew – he loved – yes, a brutal story.  So as he finished his story – he joyfully told us the tale of “The Big Baboon.”

“THE BIG BABOON”

It was a quiet afternoon out on the Okavango Delta – as six male Lions were slowly cruising through the bush – on a lazy summer day. Far – far – far off in the distance.  There was a huge – mean – dominant male Baboon – king of his harem.  Bathing in the warm sun – he stood sentry over his troop on the top branch of a beautiful Acacia tree.  As he rested there scanning the horizon – he spotted the six Lions approaching – he rose to his feet and let out a giant roar – HOHOHOOO.  He stomped and jumped on the branch at the same time – making quite a scene.  The entire tree shook and quivered with each of his screams – roars – shrieks.  Well, it didn’t seem to bother the Lions – “Kings of the Jungle.”  As the Lions got closer – and closer – the giant Baboon with his long teeth snarling – spitting – shouted louder and louder.  HOHOHOOO – HOHOHOOO – shaking the branch with all his might – the entire tree swayed back and forth – but slowly and quietly the Lions just kept coming.  As they arrived at his tree  – oh – so very close – they were now directly beneath “The Big Baboon” – well, he let out a roar like you’ve never heard before – his loudest ever – with all his teeth shining – screaming – HOHOHOOO – HOHOHOOO – HOHOHOOO – swinging on his branch from side to side – like a mad man.  Suddenly – in an instant – without a second’s warning – the branch he stood on snapped – he fell to the ground with giant a thud – right into the middle of the six Lions.  It was his last day – what a great meal for the Lions!

 We all laughed.

 

 

“MOLTOPI”

Steve Hulbert
&
Odumetse Modikwa  – “Odi”
                                     

The story of Moltopi – the most beautiful young female Leopard – you’ve ever seen!

“Moltopi” is the daughter of “Bosbia” – Moltopi also had a brother – he had recently been killed by Baboons.  Upon reaching the age of two-years-old Moltopi had separated from her mother – which is natural for Leopards – for they are strictly solitary animals.  Losing her son made Bosbia very sad – she was so moved by his death that Bosbia did something very rare for Leopards – she started to reunite with her daughter – Moltopi.  Bosbia did this by inviting Moltopi to share in her kills and eat together – Moltopi started to do the same – they would stay together for a few days then split up again to hunt separately.  This was a very special relationship in the animal world – especially for Leopards.  They were a unique mother and daughter.

It was a cool – beautiful – blue sky morning – on the banks of the Linyanti River in the Okavango Delta of Botswana – a mother Fish Eagle had coaxed her two baby eaglets out of their nest for the first time – high in the branches of the Morani trees – she was perched – watching her two babies – flap and flutter – from tree to tree – making their way – experiencing flight for the first time.  It was a wondrous sight – Fish Eaglets learning to fly!  As all this commotion took place – a beautiful female Leopard raised her head from a deep sleep – hidden in the branches of a Mopane tree – she slowly rose and scanned the landscape.  Moltopi was her name – she quickly jumped from branch to branch down the tree – to the ground – like a sleek stealth ghost – she launched into another tree just a few yards away – she shot up like a rocket – up – up – up – bouncing branch to branch – what’s she doing?  Leopards are supposed to sleep during the day?  Higher and higher she danced – why? Where was she going?  Then without warning – from out of the shadows – the mother Fish Eagle came soaring in with talons flashing – straight at Moltopi – KAKAKA – screaming – whistling – she glanced at Moltopi’s side and flew away – again and again, KAKAKA!  Whooshing – dive bombing – attacking Moltopi – without a flinch Moltopi climbed higher and higher.  The attacks continued – until Moltopi – finally got to her destination – the nest!  It was huge – at least four feet wide and three feet high – it was the nest of the eaglets and their mother.
Moltopi reached up and peered over the lip of the nest – there was no one home – what a lucky day –  they were out learning to fly!  Moltopi slowly came down the tree with nothing to eat – picked her a branch – slowly laid down – closed her eyes – went to sleep once more – until night came – her time to hunt.

Late in the afternoon that day – as Moltopi slept in the branch of an African Mangosteen tree – resting in the shade – she waited for the sun to go down – so she could go hunt in the darkness of night. A troop of 30-40 Baboons were far – far off in the distance and were approaching slowly – they were heading in her direction.  The Baboons – were rolling and tumbling – cleaning each other – picking the seeds off the ground – playing as the Baboons – always do.  As Moltopi lay camouflaged in the tree – she dreamed of her mother and brother – the Baboons passed off to her left – but it being such a large troop – they spread out like a giant wave.  Then out of the clear silence came a huge roar – a scream alert – rang out like a piercing shot – all the Baboons start screaming – louder and louder – HOHOHO – HOHOHO – YAYAYAK.  Moltopi awakes from her slumber to the horror of looking down on thirty Baboons surrounding her tree!  Running – screaming – circling – they start to climb up towards Moltopi. She shakes herself from her sleep – springs to her feet – bounding up – up – up – up to the top branches of the tree – like lightning – higher and higher – out to the thinnest branch – the smallest branch that would support her!  It was unbelievable – the sound – HOHOHO – HOHOHO – YAYAYAK – the attack – the Baboons jumping throughout the tree – shaking and screaming – going closer – closer to Moltopi – they were trying to surround her.  She’s frozen – trapped – what will happen next. A few large female Baboons approach to attack – but she swipes at them with her paw – again and again – they stop – they freeze – it’s a standoff.  For over an hour Moltopi and the Baboons are at a frozen showdown.  Moltopi’s only hope is to wait out the Baboons who must return to their community Palm trees – where they go to sleep for the night – before darkness and their predator the Lions come out to hunt!  No one makes a move for an hour – there’s stillness.  Suddenly –slowly – one Baboon – then the next – start to retreat – slowly climbing down the tree.  Eventually after another hour they all have gone and moved on – No – but one!  He’s 5’ 4” tall – the biggest – baddest – meanest – nastiest looking Baboon you’ve ever seen – look at those fangs – he is the dominant male Baboon of the troop.  The entire time the troop had attacked Moltopi – he sat at the base of Moltopi’s tree – he never moved – he never went up.  He had been waiting – waiting for her to jump out of the tree – trying to make her last dash for life – he hoped that she might break a leg if she jumped – but she didn’t.  Moltopi had survived – held on till the end – now – Mr. Big must go up to get her.  Slowly he starts up the tree – Moltopi is watching his every move.  Then he goes into action – flying branch to branch – like the circus master of the flying trapeze!  In a flash – he is able to get above her.  One large male Baboon can kill a Leopard – if he can attack it from behind or get on her back – but Moltopi stays frozen covered by leaves and branches.  Mr. Big waits – he can’t figure out how to launch his attack.  It’s another frozen standoff.  After another hour, Mr. Big – HOHOHO – then slowly – very slowly – moves from branch to branch – down the tree – as he gets to the base – he sits and waits again.  As time slowly passes – Moltopi knows – if she can wait till darkness comes – he will leave.  Finally, Mr. Big slowly – ever so slowly – heads off to his troop.  Moltopi waits – waits and waits – making sure she’s safe to live another day in the bush!

We watched this scene from our Landcruiser at the base of the tree for a couple of hours.  It is the most powerful experience I have ever felt in nature and Africa.  Blown away, what can I say?

If you get an opportunity to watch on PBS or purchase the National Geographic DVD “Eye of the Leopard.” – It’s the best – directed and filmed by the Joberts.

“AFRICA”

Where in the World?
Are the skies – – – as big
As they are in Africa
The stars, the sun
The rivers, the moon
As far as you can see
Jungle, savannas and the woodlands
All that, make the bush

Where in the world?
Is life – – – so real
As it is in Africa
The animals, the birds
The insects, the fish
All that lives and breathes
Newborns, death, and the kill
The full circle of life

Where in the world?
Can you close your eyes – – – and feel
What you can in Africa
The sounds, the smell
The voices, the wind
Like no other place
In the air, on your skin, with every sense
You feel the texture of life

Where in the world?
Are the people – – – as happy
As they are in Africa
The music, the stories
The family, the tribe
Hearts so full and free
The (Hootla) Kgotla, justice and the Chief
An extended way of life

Where in the world?
Would I rather be?
It is, to be in Africa

   Steve Hulbert

 

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